Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Phil, No idea when first session is. I am guessing kicks off 9:30ish and may have had one session by lunch.

Still got std diff ratio and std 210,000km old gearbox. There is some money being placed on box not lasting the weekend. I have no worries. Old RB20 boxes are tough :rolleyes:

So the cams gave a sniff that there was more to come. The new turbo has given a sniff that the setup is moving in the right direction.

Seems my R32 is more 58 Plymouth Fury and she doesn't like the extra cubes in her and is playing silly buggers somewhere in the setup. Think dirving around with a head gasket issue with condensation in the exhaust on biref trips etc may have collapse the muffler in the 11 yr old HKS exhaust. I hope its something as simple as that because there seems to be an odd restriction somewhere that means we make ok power but not what we shoudl be :(

Meanwhile, I need this spend to stop so I can count my cash and go buy my Sierra an 80s dance partner at the end of the month

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page21.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/j229858495&thumb=http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/f13batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/1/4/3/5/gensen_fujicarsjapan-thumb-1364822988738188.jpg&title=S62%20GTS%20RBBS17%20AW%20com

i saw this when i was hunting for a caterham on yahoo japan. ;)

Dont know exactly. Tuner and I agreed not to worry about a number. Just run it up, leave plenty in reaserve re fuelling and lets get a good benchmark and some kms on it. Still needs work on fuel setup and cooler piping etc etc. Is somewhere around 300-320. Depends on whether we go for 16psi or 18psi. Dont care just want to it safe to get some track miles under my belt

That's the spirit! Track miles is what it's about!

  • 2 weeks later...

Well engine seems pretty healthy. Only got two laps before hitting problems but the one lap where I came on to the straight with traffic I was still 24km/h up on my previous best stratightline speed. SO thing has a load more mumbo then the old 98 tune on the 20G.

The only pic from the day, idle in the pits :)

spacer.gif923013_10152804590120305_94948149_n.jpg

I think its the front right king pin bearing on the hub to upright. Tyre now rubs on upright :(

Funny you should say that, my 34 has just done the exact same thing :(

Engine bay looks great too Roy :thumbsup:

Me too! Kingpin bearing is flogged out. but i reckon mine has something to do with 295 semi slicks and lots of track days haha. They are sooo expensive to replace! Something like $800 each from Nissan Japan. They're not servicable. Gotta buy the whole upright!

Me too! Kingpin bearing is flogged out. but i reckon mine has something to do with 295 semi slicks and lots of track days haha. They are sooo expensive to replace! Something like $800 each from Nissan Japan. They're not servicable. Gotta buy the whole upright!

Yep i just went second hand and will see how it goes :unsure:

The bearings in the upright (that hold the kingpin) are a serviceable item. I takes some pasence to get them out without damaging the upright, but it can be done pretty easy. I recently changed mine

Edited by sav man

Me too! Kingpin bearing is flogged out. but i reckon mine has something to do with 295 semi slicks and lots of track days haha. They are sooo expensive to replace! Something like $800 each from Nissan Japan. They're not servicable. Gotta buy the whole upright!

Went through the same deal with Jimmy33t also, he found this number BRG A-KINGPIN 40030-33P12

Its the main one, any bearing shop can match the smaller one. Be careful of the lower seal, expensive item through nissan australia

...sounds like we need a tutorial developed for how to do the kingpin replacement - I'm concerned about mine now :wacko:

How's the gearbox going Roy? My 20 box lasted for 22 years (with 6 years of that mated to a RB25 making around 240rwkw) and it wasn't until I went for mega torque with my GT-RS that it started making bad noises.

...sounds like we need a tutorial developed for how to do the kingpin replacement - I'm concerned about mine now :wacko:

How's the gearbox going Roy? My 20 box lasted for 22 years (with 6 years of that mated to a RB25 making around 240rwkw) and it wasn't until I went for mega torque with my GT-RS that it started making bad noises.

Not that hard to change really, found a tapered roller bearing replacement also which has preload when fitted and no shimming required

Here is my graph. Pretty lazy at the moment as no boost or ignition really thrown at it at the moment. Not until we get some kms on the new engine and get the gearbox and rear end/diff fixed.

At the moment there is no EBC, just s soft gate spring with a bleed.

gallery_462_50_30344.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...