Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That gear box mount looks familiar!

I got the guys at Vibra Technics to make that mount - good to see it hasn't just been a one off for me!

I've been considering swapping my rear cradle to an R33 one for a wile now.

What offset bushes did you use?

How much wider did the track end up?

If I do it, I'll still be using the stock arms as mine is a daily, so trying to work out how much I'll have to flare my gaurds.

The car is on blocks still :) So who knows...

I am mainly doing it for strength as the 32 cradle had cracks and long term with the new engine thicker shafts isnt a bad thing. Meant new shocks and diff which sux but everything is new do will be mega.

Running GKtech offset diff bushes

I dont think the rear is any wider. I think the wider track is from the offset and width of wheels...but would have to check again

The mount is neat. I run their gear in my Cossie and gets the job done

  • 3 months later...

Yeh, slowly getting it together. I am slowly slapping it all back together including some new little projects that I am keen to try. Also selling off all th ebits off my built RB25 while its healthy to help fund the new engine I am piecing together. The recent Euro trip to Monaco and tom-foolery hurt the budget so still slugging away with a small spend per month. Hope to have it back on the road tuned with the new Kinda surprise motor by Xmas and summer. Lol wanted to put A/C back in the car so used that as silly justification for a new engine :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Baby steps doing dome work a few nights this week. 

Got thre front end all back together with Nismo inner upper mount. Alloy hubs, modded Ikeya LCA, Noltec upper arm and all new king pin bearings and wheel bearings. New RCA tie rod ends. In the rear got the new diff gusseted cradle all dummy fitted with Nismo inner pick up braces all dummy fitted.  So over weekend will grease up all the bushes and get that all bolted home too

20160805_205906.jpg

SkypePhoto_20160805_233003.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...

Hey Roy nice write up mate. I'm considering the Tomei Poncam 256/8.5mm for my unopened RB20 soon. Would you say that they give enough benefit to be a worth purchase? Currently have 290whp with a Garrett GTX2860r and all quality supporting mods. Stock intake and exhaust manifolds. Am considering going with a Garrett GTX3071r if the cams prove to bring on power earlier with the current turbo as this is a street car and doesn't see the track. Cheers.

  • 1 month later...

Std cams work just fine i.o. Some ppl make cams work for them others dont.  For sure the $1000 in parts and tuning dont equate to a step change in performance imo. If its a street car just make sure you have cam gears. On std cams they made a bigger change then aftermarket cams.

 

I reckon if i still had the RB20 with punchy power i would slap a 4.6 diff it....110 highway cruising would be a little more painful but imo gear the things like a rotary :) crown wheel and pinion cheaper than cams

  • Like 1

Yeh. Now got twin -5s in what looks like an RB20DETT :) Even  gone back to std inlet.

Lol...have another motor but just want to play with the built 25DE a bit longer. Also easier for a buyer to hand over cash for an engine they can drive/listen/hear. Then just slap everything onto new motor which is VCT RB26

Flap peak for life!!!

If 25de'd were cheap like they were 10 years ago I would almost go down a similar route.

I've seen one other R33 RB25 TT.
An R31 passage, customer car at R31 house.

Think it had an FCon ECU.
Was pretty impressive

  • 2 months later...
Tired of 6poop T67 setup so sold it and slapping this together.
Its crap...but at least im not part of the single turbo flat cap brigade 
Don't have any other TD06SH or T67s lying around still?

Need to do something about my L2 being too small for an rb25 :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...