Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having thrown a few brake setups at the old girl, I am hoping this will be my last brake setup that I run for a while

med_gallery_462_50_294104.jpg

Just need to machine up the mounts so that I can use the callipers with the new 343 x 32mm 32 vane rotors I have on order. Also waiting for Performance Friction to release the new compound of pad I am waiting to run.

Random brake fetish questions:

The Stop techs look all the world like F40/F50 clones. Do they share the same mount dimensions?

Who are you getting to machine the brackets?

Whose rotors you using.

Lastly these folk may be worth trying for pads:

www.polepositionusa.com

These are the DS2500 pad for F40's. NFI if they match the Stoptechs, however. Note the PFC cross reference.

http://www.polepositionusa.com/ferodo-frp3...-brake-pads.htm

They are similar in dimensions but as many differences as similarities. They appear to be forged rather then cast. The bolted bridge, the pad retaining clip is the same as the old school Big Red Porsche calipers. The pistons izes in these happen to be the same as F40s. I think mounting wise they have the same offset as the F40s, though will know for sure when I fit them up and trial them.

I am going to draft and machine up the mounts myself and going to use locally sourced 343 x 32mm 2 pce rotors

what size tyres are u running on the 34 rims roy, ive just bought a set from a forum member.

The car has standard guards atm so ill need to get them rolled as much as possible i guess since im thinking of re55s in a 245/40

what are your thoughts?

cheers

I just ordered some stoptech rotors from the states. Far out they are cheap vs brembo and harrop. And the Brembo/Stoptech floating rotor design makes it 100x cheaper to get hats mate up (no need for 20x $20 bobbins)

what size tyres are u running on the 34 rims roy, ive just bought a set from a forum member.

The car has standard guards atm so ill need to get them rolled as much as possible i guess since im thinking of re55s in a 245/40

what are your thoughts?

cheers

Mick, I run 265/35's on mine mate, no issues really, just a mild gaurd roll, kind of eats the inner gaurds a bit but no biggy. Edit: I just remembered it did actually grab the LH front gaurd once, but it was during a pretty rough road tarmac rally, hasn't done it since......

11468_102362446454898_1000004342-1.jpg

Edited by Marlin
  • 3 weeks later...

so ummmm, has it been on the track of late?

Any news on the plazaman, would love to see if my theory of standard runners will improve your response with a FF plenum. That or I have to take my inlet back to stock and see if I lose or gain anything.

Did a motorkhana the other week, but most likely its next track day will be the Sandown sprints on Cup Weekend.

In the meantime, new dump pipe with bung for the LC-1 A/F meter

med_gallery_462_50_238480.jpg

The Power F/C isnt tuned to run off the A/F gauge, will see about getting a new one and installing to get the closed loop freeway tune more accurate but not sure if its worth the agro

Also now have my hands on my new rotors,

med_gallery_462_50_236473.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_96158.jpg

med_gallery_462_50_107786.jpg

Mounts are drawn up and will machine them up out of some platic to see if the fit is ok before machining out of billet. Hopefully brakes will be all sorted in 2-3weeks time

Engine wise still waiting to see how dumping the plumb back gate goes for power and then we will try the plenum

Edited by Roy
You're a brake whore!

Your setup has the better rotors. But will be interesting to try these Stoptechs and see if there is much difference between them and the F40s. The Brembos have cheaper and better range of pads as the Stoptechs use Porsche pads and it seems anything with a Porsche part number costs that little bit more :banana:

I have a couple sets of spare calipers, Alcons and Brembos....on the lookout for a dedicated track car that they will find themselves on to. Have a set of 4 pot rears that I am building up at the moment that should work really well

I am hoping with the new plenum, Tomei cams, E85 and perhaps the 10cm housing that it will only lose 200rpm response and make 300rwkws with a good spread of torque for a 4,000rpm range. I still have the shorter diff that I can try to get this little 20 on song, but means i would have to go 19s or something on the street to get reasonable freeway cruising rpm. On my 17s it would be pulling 3600rpm on the freeway :D

Edited by Roy

hey roy

what size is that dump pipe? 2 1/2 into 3 or bigger?

and we have a stock internals rb20 down here pushing just over 300rwkw on e85 with a XR6 style bolt on garrett kit on a stock manifold. internal gate ect so you should get what you want on E85

They Harrop rotors and hats?

Dont believe so, but if they resemble Harrops then its not really surprising as the company making the rotors once had some ex Harrop people starting that side of the business. (what I was told back in 2005ish) They are CSC rotors.

My dump is 76.2mm stainless tube. Wanted to go 4 " but will have to get a custom reducer spun up to go from the small 8cm exhaust housing up to 101.6 tube. Will do that when I do my new exhaust.

I hope Caltex get some runs on the board with the E85, as otherwise I am considering trying one of the new TD05-18G turbos with ported shroud to fatten up my curve

GReddy_Turbo_Chart3.jpg

Edited by Roy
hey roy

what size is that dump pipe? 2 1/2 into 3 or bigger?

and we have a stock internals rb20 down here pushing just over 300rwkw on e85 with a XR6 style bolt on garrett kit on a stock manifold. internal gate ect so you should get what you want on E85

Wholeee bugeesus.... 300 from a stock internal 20! Whooohooo!!!

Hey Damo, is there any e85 servo's in Tas yet?

Cheers

Justin

hey roy

what size is that dump pipe? 2 1/2 into 3 or bigger?

and we have a stock internals rb20 down here pushing just over 300rwkw on e85 with a XR6 style bolt on garrett kit on a stock manifold. internal gate ect so you should get what you want on E85

Isn't that car only running E30 ATM?

Dont believe so, but if they resemble Harrops then its not really surprising as the company making the rotors once had some ex Harrop people starting that side of the business. (what I was told back in 2005ish) They are CSC rotors.

We run CSC's on the Targa GT-R, and apparently the rotors and hat are Harrops from the Harrop factory. Just a lot cheaper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...