A Boy's Love For His Rb20
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Updating results following our SR20det project. Data collected form improves future turbocharger making and high flowing services. So far differences between G and GT series turbine wheels, we are in the process of making a new turbine, the aim is for better mid top range flow without gain too much lag. Result is back to back comparison of G25-660 and GTX2867 spec turbochargers on the same car, nothing changed apart from turbocharger. Both tuned to knock limit from pump 98 fuel (US Ron93). GTX2867 was about 400RPM more responsive making 255rwkws while G25-660 made 17 extra Kws with wider spread of torque after 4500RPM finishing off at 272rwkws. -
@GTSBoy i tried to jumper the wires and got the steering wheel light to come on which is right under the gear indication but that still doesnt come on. Can it be an issue with my cluster? -
Given that you have seen the dash indicator work briefly, then it would seem like you have a simple wiring problem. What happens when you simply jumper the wires on the "steering wheel switch"? -
Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful... Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too. -
Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement. As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.
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