Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've got an R34GTR and recently had my clutch replaced since the clutch replacement or recently after I've noticed my daily driving temps have significanlty increased. To keep temp level at close to 100 I have the car in sixth gear and 2000rpm anything over this will cause water temps to increase. I live in northern aus so its hot all day everday but this was never a problem before. Even a spirited drive wouldn't bring the the tempts upto 100, maybe close 95 or 96 before I'd slow it down and go back to normal driving to bring the temp down.

For some reason my overflow bottle didn't have a lid/cap so I bought one yesterday and it was $16.30 for a milk carton lid from Nissan, so I put it on and filled it with coolant.

Prior to this I'd flushed the radiator by removing the bottom rad hose putting a hose in the top of the rad and just idling the car which did absolutely nothing, mind you at that time the overflow tank was empty and and there was no lid on it.

I can drive normally and the car doesn't go up to ridiculous temps but it still goes quite high like into the 90's in no time at all, so I'm always keeping an eye on temps, keeping revs low etc.

My next thought was to check the thermostat is stuck closed or partially closed. I thought this was changed in service I did about 20K ago, along with the water pump, did 100k service very early.

Thoughts???

5. faulty rad cap or a pressure leak somewhere. had it myself once... replaced everything including the thermostat,no joy... did the cap in the end and presto.

As for the thermostat, pull it off and drop it in a jug of hot water. if it opens its ok... if not then its buggered.

Prior to this I'd flushed the radiator by removing the bottom rad hose putting a hose in the top of the rad and just idling the car which did absolutely nothing.

Not sure what you were trying to achieve there. To flush the radiator, remove it and take it to a radiator works. They'll give you an indication of its condition and cooling capacity.

After you did this flush, did you re-fill and bleed all the air from your cooling system?

In regard to faulty temp sensor, standard R34 gauge reads a degree or two higher than the power fc and from what I've read they use different sensors?? So don't think this is the case. Also steaming coolant sort of tells me that the high reading is correct lol :/ jokes on me lol.

Not sure what you were trying to achieve there. To flush the radiator, remove it and take it to a radiator works. They'll give you an indication of its condition and cooling capacity.

After you did this flush, did you re-fill and bleed all the air from your cooling system?

I'm far from a mechanic mate just thought I'd replace the fluid in there and run some water through it after I'd let it drain to see if I could flush some of the shit out. Just trying to do a few things myself in an attempt to learn a few things and save a few bucks cos I'm broke and can't afford a new radiator.

I'm far from a mechanic mate just thought I'd replace the fluid in there and run some water through it after I'd let it drain to see if I could flush some of the shit out. Just trying to do a few things myself in an attempt to learn a few things and save a few bucks cos I'm broke and can't afford a new radiator.

Flushing is unlikely to clean out a blocked radiator. Try the cheap fix (test or replace your thermostat if you have to go to the trouble of pulling it out) but if that doesn't fix it

new radiator = $300

cooked engine = $$$$$$$$$$

Same thing happened to me.

Radiator was blocked to f**k.

Only way to fix it is to replace it. There are some traders on here with really good deals on radiators.

+1 ^

After you tried to flush the system did you bleed it? Try this:

Jack up the front of the car, or park on a fairly steep hill, so that your radiator is the highest point of your car. Then get a 2l coke bottle and cut it in half, and stick it in your radiator cap. Fill the coke bottle about half way with coolant or distilled water, and now just run your car. Continue to top up the water in the coke bottle if need be. Just let it run for awhile to let any air in the system escape.

Give that a go and see what it does, won't hurt anyway, as long as you use distilled water.

do both guages match

ie does digital readout on the MFD and the stock guage both show mega high temp

ie, is it a sensor issue, or is it really 120+ deg water temp

my money is on not bleeding the air out

tell us exactly how you filled it back up with coolant or water

To be honest your probably right I don't know how to bleed out the air. So all I did was basically drain all the fluid by removing the bottom hose of radiator, put a hose in the top of the radiator in an attempt to flush shit out while car was idling, reconnected hose, turned car off, filled radiator with coolant, then let idle again and attempted to put more fluid in but thinking that the bubbles would come out once car was idling but this really didn't happen and I couldn't really fit any more fluid in???

So thats what I did. Please tell me what I should have done... I love doing this stuff myself but there's just so much to learn....

OFF TOPIC: Just a quick note, I should still have the old working thermostat (if the current one is broken gonna test this weekend) but my mechanic who did the service on it taxed it and never returned, I'm going to go get it back!!! Scamming mechanic charged my friend for a turbo that he didn't even put on his car, still had the stock one on it after the engine rebuild. Also blew one of my turbo's while doin the 100 000km service the bastard....

<br />do both guages match<br /><br />ie does digital readout on the MFD and the stock guage both show mega high temp<br />ie, is it a sensor issue, or is it really 120+ deg water temp<br />

Both gauges the digital and the one on the dash show mega high temps including some steam to verify, so definitely not a sensor problem...

Edited by full_stick
OFF TOPIC: Just a quick note, I should still have the old working thermostat (if the current one is broken gonna test this weekend) but my mechanic who did the service on it taxed it and never returned, I'm going to go get it back!!! Scamming mechanic charged my friend for a turbo that he didn't even put on his car, still had the stock one on it after the engine rebuild. Also blew one of my turbo's while doin the 100 000km service the bastard....

Mate am I reading this right??? DO NOT take your car back to this mechanic! And how the hell do you blow a turbo doing a service?? :mad:

And yeah I also had a similar problem to you. I bought a new thermostat and a nice fat just jap radiator. Problem solved and now water temps are always low even out on the track.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...