Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det Misfire?


evan b
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im new to skylines australia and I know this topic has been touched many times however I havent been able to solve my problem so any advise would be much appretiated.

I have a r33 which has a ecu modifyed by sam at dr drift so the afm is located between the intercooler and the inlet plenum anyhow I have had a lot of problems with the intercooler pipe blowing off at the afm (which I think is where my problem first started) so I welded a couple of tabs on each pipe and ran a bolt on bar beside the afm to stop it from seperating, once all that was done the car now seems to have a misfire mabe? it runs a little rougher than normal at idle but seems fine to drive untill you hit boost where it coughs an splutters etc on occiasion it will boost in second gear but it over boosts.

I think the fuel pump is fine as its new and it pumps a bit of black smoke out the back while its playing up and also I have tryed a bunch of things to rectify the problem which includes- cleaning fuel filter etc, carn't find any vacume leaks, new spark plugs, pulled the coil packs off my rb26 and tryed them ( splitfires where on the car), inspected the coil harness and added an extra earth, cleaned earth's on motor, tryed a second ignitor,afm & tps, the wastegate was sticking a bit also but have since cleaned around the valve and flange so it now moves freely, I also hooked it up to the consult cable and it shows no erra's though the tps ( first one) was running at .80 volts so adjusted that to 0.45 v.

So as you can see ive had enough of this f**in pice of sh**t so if anyone can help me out here it would make my day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

misread the post.. nothing to say lol :bunny:

edit: have you checked out the o2 sensor? also, try a self-clean on the afm just incase :S good luck, sounds like a challenge :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check the AFM value during driving on consult

because its been blowing the pipe off you may have physicall damaged the hotwire, its a simple wire after all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check the AFM value during driving on consult

because its been blowing the pipe off you may have physicall damaged the hotwire, its a simple wire after all

Will do mate, when I take a look at the car next its on its second afm though which im pretty confident is in good working order, its gota be somthing like that ive over looked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys just thought id run some thoughts past ya,

When the car does boost I carn't hear the wastegate so much yet the boost guage say's the inlet manifold is seeing 22psi which it should be 18psi the wastegate has a 15psi spring in it which leads me to beleve this could a plenum leak, I had allready checked for this but only visualy inspected pipes/hoses etc so are there any suggestions for like a leak down test or something effective without striping everything down?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might have a look at the car this weekend I also noticed it has a slight manifold leak though I wouldn't think it could cause the car to play up this much could it? the engine also seems to be going through huge amounts of fuel is well so im still a bit confused as to what the problem might be?

so come on fella's the more infomation I can get the better im sure some one has had similar symptons any input is always appretiated cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
    • Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.
    • Yes sir, that was me. Fake ARP's are also a thing over here in Canada and we only order from reputable dealers. It's sad that even simple things like bolts and hoses are now also being copied... anything to make a dollar.  Story time. Like all cheap crap from China, it's even an issue with firearms. Roughly 15 years ago, I purchased a new cheap Norinco 12g shotgun. First time out in the bush with it, while firing, bolt assembly didn't lock and it fired out of battery. The receiver also being cheap steel, basically exploded in my face. I was lucky to be wearing eye protection. Long story short, don't buy Chinese junk. Also Norinco being state run and their only military arms producer, if ever they do try and take over a country, don't worry about it lol. 
    • Installed  Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged.  You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point??   Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged.  I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder??    Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks     
×
×
  • Create New...