Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

soldering iron and solder obviously. scratch as much of that crap of and clean it up before starting. try to get the joints hot quickly and either shake it to flick out old solder or just add to it depending on what it looks like. try not to get too hot as diodes and other components will break down and fail. sharp knife or scewdriver when you finish and scratch a line between the tracks on the board incase any residue has settled between them. goodluck

The three main bits with the orange around them are the usual culprits for dry joints - you shouldn't even need more solder - just clean up the gunk, then heat them up with an iron to re-flow, and should be good. The orange is a good indicator of an issue with the joint. I re-flowed those three joints on mine (only ones showing issues) when the gauge was starting to play up on occasion (usually going over bumps), and it's been perfect since.

If you see any others that look dry - might be worth cleaning up & re-flowing those too.

Is the hose still intact from the plenum? One of the times my gauge failed, I found the hosing split to pieces, barely noticeable - but it just sat on 0 (or just off). I think they fall to pieces after a few years in a hot engine bay - it was terribly brittle.

I pulled it off the sensor and started up, the suction was defiantly there, didnt see any cracks or splits...but will mulit check it.

Edit: Hose is clean and not cracks or holes that i could see..

Does it matter if i have an after market boost gauge on / will that effect if the stock boost is working ?

Edited by Blazk

Aftermarket gauge will typically be hooked up to a different point, so should be fine. As long as the piping from the plenum is going into the boost sensor, and the sensor is plugged in fine, should be good. You could also try reading the voltages out of the boost gauge - the R34 service manual lists what voltages associate with what boost levels (will rule out whether it's sensor or gauge failure)

I'd offer to drop past and let you try out my boost sensor, but the front end of my car is in pieces at the moment for fitting FMIC and not sure it's gonna be driving for another week or so... (depends how lazy I am)

Try borrow a boost sensor some wreckers will let you try to buy. Or you could blow into the sensor with a hose and watch the guage. I had to wiggle the plug on the boost sensor all the time to get it to work until i re soldered. The pins could be dirty where it plugs in. It sounds like its trying to work. The guage wouldnt even move if it wasnt for the sensor sending something.

Aftermarket gauge will typically be hooked up to a different point, so should be fine. As long as the piping from the plenum is going into the boost sensor, and the sensor is plugged in fine, should be good. You could also try reading the voltages out of the boost gauge - the R34 service manual lists what voltages associate with what boost levels (will rule out whether it's sensor or gauge failure)

I'd offer to drop past and let you try out my boost sensor, but the front end of my car is in pieces at the moment for fitting FMIC and not sure it's gonna be driving for another week or so... (depends how lazy I am)

Thanks for the offer Jenna, I read your FMIC didnt fit which sucks.

I found the after market boost is hooked up via the BOV so that didnt affect it at all. I went to Andrew's (nightcrawler) last night and picked up his spare triple gauge. Put it in and seems to be working, but only quickly tested it. Looking at the back of the Nismo one there are a few orange solders so i will go over them today and see what happens.

As for the sensor anyone know if the r33 and r34 use the same one ? I read on a couple post people using r33 sensors and they seem to work the same, anyone confirm?

Edited by Blazk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...