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So this is a spin off, of the topic of the Turbotech Manual Boost controller. Fitting is pretty straight forward, took around 1.5 hours, due to the lack of space getting around areas of the engine bay. Please note, doing this is at your own risk, such as blowing your turbos or your engine. Some people have said, replace your stock solenoid with the boost controller directly, this is INCORRECT as this does squat for the GTR.

What you need from supercheap:

1x T piece 6mm

2x straight through pieces 6mm

8x hose clamps

5 meters of 6mm vacuum hose

Review of the controller for the GTR 3/5. It had boost fall off, and I can't say, it gated the boost quicker than the stock solenoid. My hoses were cracking anyway, so I used as much new hose as possible.

The principles of installing a boost controller stays the same here, you intercept the boost source from the intake manifold that control the wastegates. For the GTR, our boost solenoid controls the boost, and hence you want to totally bypass this.

Here's a picture of it installed already:

38487_457641105287_556010287_6664692_2337641_n.jpg

Step 1. Locate the boost source which is a hose coming out of a hardpipe from the back of the manifold. It's opposite the fuel filter, there are 2 bigger hoses there, use the one furthest away from the front. Lucky for me, it was easy to identify and get to, as the last owner had a boost controller on before, he had a straight through connector identifying this hose, use the source FROM the plenum, once disconnected don't worry about the other half dangling:

38264_457641085287_556010287_6664691_6149704_n.jpg

Step 2. Insert a new straight through connector to your new hose and run this all the way from the back of the engine to the right side. You want to use as much hose here, and put the controller as close to the wastegates as possible.

Step 3. I mounted the boost controller at the ABS clips

38264_457641080287_556010287_6664690_2465224_n.jpg

Step 4. T piece the wastegates together and connect to the turbotech controller, as said, I wanted to use as much new hose as possible, so I connected one to the closes hardpipe for the inside turbo, and straight to the wastegate for the other.

38264_457641075287_556010287_6664689_6794400_n.jpg

38264_457641070287_556010287_6664688_2402166_n.jpg

35962_457641020287_556010287_6664687_8003532_n.jpg

And walla you've finished. Some additional stuff I did was blank off the air connector, and disconnected the original solenoid.

So, why did I install this you say if it's got the boost fall off? I'm planning to leave this setup with a turbo swap for later so half the works done.

Hope this helps, there's also some information I used from my "How to install boost controller in GTR" thread back a few months ago. The engine diagram is located there.

Enjoy!

^^^^ yes...

just thought id mention it

theres a shittonne of air blasting out that hole, goto make sure that nothing is going to obstruct the air from coming out, and your cable tie looks like its right in the way.

but, im not going to question you

  • 7 months later...

does the one coming from the plenum come around to the first t bit that gose to the back waste??

so if you are on boost and take you foot off the presser from the plenum pushes the waste gates open rite???

Some people have said, replace your stock solenoid with the boost controller directly, this is INCORRECT as this does squat for the GTR.

I don't understand why I can't install this MBC right next to where the stock boost solenoid is, which is very easy to access. Can someone please explain to me?!

You can, but because of the distance being on the other side of the engine it's not ideal because of the slower response a closed-loop boost controller will experience (initial boost spiking etc)

  • 3 weeks later...

i totlaly agree. I alwayss recommend splicing the controller in to give the pressure the shortest space to build to preven lag and spike. It would be interesting though to do some experiementation to find accurate data on what is really happening when the controller is installed in different locations ie distance etc like intsalling a manual controller in the cabin. It woudl be great to kow for sure how much an impact it makes.

i totlaly agree. I alwayss recommend splicing the controller in to give the pressure the shortest space to build to preven lag and spike. It would be interesting though to do some experiementation to find accurate data on what is really happening when the controller is installed in different locations ie distance etc like intsalling a manual controller in the cabin. It woudl be great to kow for sure how much an impact it makes.

Geez my spelling is crap!

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