Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
  • 6 months later...

So I was researching this issue and came across this thread. Looks like I have the same issue. On cold starts the 4WD system always works fine but sometimes on hot starts the 4WD error light comes up on the dash and the car is in permanent 2WD mode.

Had a look and it always seems to be error code 18.

Joey did you ever solve your problem mate? It's just painful with no 4WD the car is way to tail happy. I'll start testing this weekend hopefully but any insight would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just wondering if you guys resolved this problem?

I have an R32 GTR with error code 18. Tested the circuit as per the workshop manual and it's all good. However 4WD light stays on permanently and attessa pump only primes rarely on startup.

Any input from other people's experiences would be appreciated before I begin to change pressure switches and pumps out of desperation!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at the positive terminal on the battery. See if you can replace/improve the links.

Ravi - if you are replying to my comments I have a new battery and new cabling, solid connection. An auto elec also tested the entire Attessa circuit and all powers up fine.

Summary of my issue:

- 4WD and ABS lights stay on constantly

- Attessa computer reporting Error code 18: “ETS pressure switch or circuit fault”

- Auto elec checked all circuits and wiring thoroughly, all is ok

- 4WD pump primes on initial startup but no pressure going through lines to gearbox

- When pump is forced to prime (sending power direct to pressure switch) no fluid is coming to gearbox

Might have to bite the bullet and replace the pump!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tried replacing the nitrogen canister above the rear diff ? It's 25 yrs old.

And I should add not cheap at around $400

That and then a flush of the fluid to be thorough

Made me a happy camper. :)

Haven't tried, but makes complete sense to do so. Any advice on where I can get a new nitrogen canister?

Thanks for the response!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't have any errors, but i replaced my canister and it totally changed the behaviour of the system during bleeding.

I got mine from rhdjapan (few months ago) it was about $280. My pump was starting to make funny noises from running all the time, wish I had changed it ages ago

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

So I was researching this issue and came across this thread. Looks like I have the same issue. On cold starts the 4WD system always works fine but sometimes on hot starts the 4WD error light comes up on the dash and the car is in permanent 2WD mode.

Had a look and it always seems to be error code 18.

Joey did you ever solve your problem mate? It's just painful with no 4WD the car is way to tail happy. I'll start testing this weekend hopefully but any insight would be appreciated.

Very late reply, I did end up solving the issue mate, what the issue actually was, stuffed if I can remember haha think it may have been battery related

I've actually got another fault now so will be interesting to see what that one is as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did this fix it mate?

Yes my 4WD is working like a dream now. Fitted the new nitrogen canister and bought a digital G-sensor to replace the old original sensor... Car hooks up all four wheels almost instantly on the track! No tail happy over steering with delayed torque split anymore.

Next I will rebuild the transfer case to ensure best possible mechanical engagement.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...