Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

ive got three grand to spend an was wounding what the best engine mod for price is going to be???

i have

spitfire coil pack

greddy front mount

3inch exhaust

pod filter

dump pipe

profic b boost controller

i was thinking turbo an injectors ....

im aiming for 300 kw by the end of the mods so i want a decent

turbo that a wont have to upgrade later? i know by just doing turbo an

injecters i wont be making this power lol

cheers guys

p.s i have a set of front seats for sale $100 t good nick to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331311-r32-rb25det-upgrade/
Share on other sites

You cannot change the injectors without a tune. To tune you will need an ecu.

An ecu could set you back 2000 on its own, once bought and tuned.

So really you have more saving to do :)

Consider:

Turbo swap around 2k - 4k depending on what you want

Injectors 1k

ECU 2k

AFM 300

Fuel pump 300

You need all of the above pretty much all in 1 go. GL.

i rekon you should

spend about 1000 -1500 on a decent turbo kit

sum second hand injectors 7-800

a new fuel pump 3-350

and get ur ecu remaped 5-600

and an afm 300

and you should get around the 300 kw mark

He has an RB25 in there so an ecu remap is not that simple or cheap..

i rekon you should

spend about 1000 -1500 on a decent turbo kit

sum second hand injectors 7-800

a new fuel pump 3-350

and get ur ecu remaped 5-600

and an afm 300

and you should get around the 300 kw mark

Good luck to the clutch!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...