Jump to content
SAU Community

Is This A Coil Pack Issue?

niran

By niran,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey everyone

I have a rb25 s2 motor in my skyline and i was on the track all day. I was driving the car hard however not on limiter but was around the 5000rpm mark regularly. Towards the end of the day my car all of a sudden felt very sluggish when i put foot down, so i pulled over and let it cool down for a while thinking it was just overheating. Took it for another spin but everytime i would flat foot the car doesn't pull and seems to be sluggish and the note of the exhaust changes and the noise of induction/boost seems to be louder than normal as if its under some load. If i however put my foot down very slowly then it won't be an issue and will run fine.

I checked my boost on my avcr and the gragh climbes as normal. Once on full boost the graph stays constant without any spiking so i ruled that out. I then also thought maybe it could be my AFM not working properly but when i remove the plug on idle the car try’s to stall and runs rich, so again i ruled that out. My other two theories are either one of the coil packs has cracked due to heat or something is up with my fuel pump. Im running a GTR fuel pump and the car is tuned to about 260rwhp.

Mods wise i got:

Rb25det

Stock ecu

Turbo back exhaust

Stock turbo

Apexi AVCR

Apexi SAFC ll

Pod filter

GTR fuel pump rewired straight to battery

That’s about it, i haven’t had a chance to inspect the coil packs yet as it happened today but will tomorrow afternoon.

I'm pretty certain it's a coil pack issue, what do you guys reckon?

Cheers ni

Edited by niran
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331379-is-this-a-coil-pack-issue/
Share on other sites
niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted
As i said, change the plugs.

Then see.

im with nismoid, check the plugs, could be hella dirty from the track day

also, check for boost leaks on ur piping, sure sounds like a boost leak

hey thanks guys, will check them out today in the afternoon and let ya know if that was the issue.

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hey everyone,

I checked and changed the plugs and that didnt seem to solve the issue. I brought some Splitfire coil packs as there was some going cheap on skyaus. Installed them and it still didn't seem to solve the issue..

i then just started looking as sensors that may have been dud, i found one of the knock sensors had come out therefore i plugged it back in, took it for a run and it drives sweet again. Once i got back my alternator belt was squealing turned the car off and when i went to tighten it did i realize that there was no bolt.

I remember on the track before it happened i heard a noise as if a piece of metal hit the ground but was not 100% sure as i couldn't hear well with the helmet on.

i was thinking maybe some how that bolt came flying out and hit the side of the block, causing the knock sensor to come off also. Either way im glad its now resolved.

thanks for the help guys

Edited by niran
Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted
I checked and changed the plugs and that didnt seem to solve the issue. I brought some Splitfire coil packs as there was some going cheap on skyaus. Installed them and it still didn't seem to solve the issue..

this is a big fear of mine with my misfire problem. have been saving for coilpacks so really hoping the damn thins work!!

have tried all the bandaid solutions (taping, siliconing) with no luck

Spurdo Experienced

Spurdo

Posted
Posted
this is a big fear of mine with my misfire problem. have been saving for coilpacks so really hoping the damn thins work!!

have tried all the bandaid solutions (taping, siliconing) with no luck

have your coils bench tested. its not a big job

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
this is a big fear of mine with my misfire problem. have been saving for coilpacks so really hoping the damn thins work!!

have tried all the bandaid solutions (taping, siliconing) with no luck

hey man

yer i had the some thought of mine, but at the end ithought might as well use the splitfires as i will need them sooner or later anyway.

maybe before you buy some try some one else's coilpacks just to make sure that the coil packs are the issue

good luck man

Edited by niran
niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
does the rb25det have two knock sensors? where are they? would mind checking as I have a similar fault in mine

hey man

yep the rb25 has two knock sensors. They are beside clyinder 2 and clyinder 5 on the block, if you look with a light you should be able to see the one closer to the front of the car, the other one however is a bit harder to see but shouldnt be to hard to find just feel around. Also they are on the side of the plenum and alternator

goodluck :whistling:

Edited by niran
maddowse Proficient

maddowse

Posted
Posted

hey i had this problem with my car a while back and i never found the problem i was giving it a bit going through the twistys in the dandanongs

all of a sudden i had no power and could not get over 70 ks i got realy concerned because there was not engin light , i tryed unpluging and re pluging the afm plug but it didnt fix it so in the end i just disconnected the battery let it sit for a few min's them reconected and hey presto back to normal and it hasent happend again (i also have all stock ) i think maybe the computer had a brainfart or something lol

hope this helps

lawler Community Regular

lawler

Posted
Posted
it's really inconsistent tho. it has the usual miss on full boost (12psi) from about 3500rpm upwards, but also has a constant miss all through the rev range sometimes, with the tc bailing at the same time. good fun

Yeah My mates rb20det in his 31 is doing the same. We have tryed everything elce excepted coils.

Problem we are having is its a silver top with red top igniter and coils so we cant find any with the right plug to try

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      How much roughly to convert stock r32gtr to single high mount turbo + ecu and tune

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse.    if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • The Bogan
      How much roughly to convert stock r32gtr to single high mount turbo + ecu and tune

      By The Bogan · Posted

      As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • R3N3
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By R3N3 · Posted

      For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • R3N3
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By R3N3 · Posted

      +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
×
×
  • Create New...