Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So not so long ago, i posted a thread about my gt-8's transmission going bad..at least i thought it was the tranny..

The problem went away after an ecu reset and a pedal position relearn.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/We...-8+transmission

Just last night the same thing happened again. I was cruising down the freeway doing 100km/h then the it felt like the car's power is cutting out jerking forward and back.

Pulled over, did an ecu reset and off i went again with no problems whatsoever after that.

One thing i noticed though is that whenever i release the accelerator pedal and put the tranny on manual mode, the car would always jump to the third gear. It doesn't matter whether i'm doing 100 or 60 km/h. But if i keep my foot on the pedal when i change the mode it goes to the appropriate gear according to the speed the car's doing.

I've got a feeling that's it's a sensor issue. It's as if the tranny doesn't know how much speed the car is doing when you let go of the accelerator. But which sensor needs checking? How much would they cost to repair?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331452-speed-sensor-issue/
Share on other sites

power cutting out doesn't sound like a transmission problem...hv u taken ur car to nissan to get a diagnostic check for possible fault codes?

i always wait till i get to a complete stop ( at traffic lights) before switching between auto and manual mode...i thought everyone did the same....apparently not ...lol

Edited by fcruz3r

Haven't really taken any notice about the gaer when i switch to man mode, but I have heard that the five speed box will always go to third, I have 2 mates with M35 stag's and they both go straight to third.

As for changing when stopped it doesn't pose any probs for the box, I would assume that Nissan would have plastered stickers all over and there would have been a note in the manual.

Yeah, i usually change the mode whenever i feel like it. And i've always noticed the gearbox go to the right gear according to my speed. This time it didn't when i let go of the accelerator.

If there is a fault code logged in the ecu wouldn't the check engine light turn on? Man i really need to get my hands on a BlaztII cable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...