Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people,

i currently have nismo 400r seats in my r33 an would like to buy a fixed bucket seat for holding, as well as having a lower seating position.

my question is do most fixed back seats sit lower than the GT-R one? An if so by how much

Any help would be much appreciated

The lower seating position is usually achieved by the rail rather than the actual seat itself. If you want to go low and don't want to go custom, I'd suggest a Bride Super Low rail teamed up with whichever seat you like (and that fits).

The lower seating position is usually achieved by the rail rather than the actual seat itself. If you want to go low and don't want to go custom, I'd suggest a Bride Super Low rail teamed up with whichever seat you like (and that fits).

thanks for the reply

yes low rails will definately help, an i think that the GT-R seat is a lil chunky underneath.

Im looking at getting the sparco evo 2 plus with low rail, hope it sits lower

Can anyone confirm?

thanks for the reply

yes low rails will definately help, an i think that the GT-R seat is a lil chunky underneath.

Im looking at getting the sparco evo 2 plus with low rail, hope it sits lower

Can anyone confirm?

Thats the exact combo i am using and yes it is lower than the 33 gtr seat. I have the gtr seat as a passenger seat and there is a noticeable difference in seat height.

  • Nope 1
thanks for the reply

yes low rails will definately help, an i think that the GT-R seat is a lil chunky underneath.

Im looking at getting the sparco evo 2 plus with low rail, hope it sits lower

Can anyone confirm?

What rail is it?

Yes the seat is chunky, but I'm telling you that 90% of the height difference will be in the choice of rail.

yep, rail design is the key. sometimes you will need a base plate to provide a flat surface, then bolt sliders to that so seat can move back and forward and then you bolt your side mounts to the sliders and the seat to the mounts. with all that stuff you end up with a fair bit of height. removing the sliders gives back about 20mm or so maybe even 30mm depending on design. you do still need some kind of base plate though to give a level mounting surface for the side mounts. the other option is modify the floor to allow you get a flat frame for the seat nice and low. lot of work though and must be done professionally.

the other option is modify the floor to allow you get a flat frame for the seat nice and low. lot of work though and must be done professionally.

I had this done in the 180, and although it was pricey my shoulder now lines up with the door frame and I'm 6'4. Super low!

Having said that, a good Bride super low rail will drop you significantly for around $300. The drop depends on the car; in the 180 it was great until I got the cage which obstructed my seating position. In the STi I sit even lower than the 180 with the modified floor (feels that way anyway). Ridiculously low at it's lowest setting, but three heights to choose from.

So which bride rail did you have before you modified your floorpan Dane?

Was it low enough for you to wear a helmet without the cage?

I have a bride rail with an older model Profi SPG in my S13 atm (its not the lowest one) and with a helmet my head hits the roof. I'm only 6' as well which is strange - maybe my body is out of proportion :(

It may be mate! :(

I think it was an FO, and I fit with just enough room though I'm 4 inches taller than you. That's with an SPA so much of a muchness.

In the STi I have an FG and it is super low, so I'd actually suggest trying one of those out.

So which bride rail did you have before you modified your floorpan Dane?

Was it low enough for you to wear a helmet without the cage?

I have a bride rail with an older model Profi SPG in my S13 atm (its not the lowest one) and with a helmet my head hits the roof. I'm only 6' as well which is strange - maybe my body is out of proportion :(

mate just go to revolution race gear and get the generic seat rail they sell for the sparco evo 2. I'm 6'1 and I have no damn probs with a helmet and a roll cage.

  • Nope 1
mate just go to revolution race gear and get the generic seat rail they sell for the sparco evo 2. I'm 6'1 and I have no damn probs with a helmet and a roll cage.

thats where im buying my seat an the rail im looking at using, did you have much trouble with installation?

thats where im buying my seat an the rail im looking at using, did you have much trouble with installation?

None at all, when I got around to doing the cage I had to cut the rail that seperates both side rails so the seat could go down a slot or 2. Its pretty basic stuff mate.

  • Nope 1
mate just go to revolution race gear and get the generic seat rail they sell for the sparco evo 2. I'm 6'1 and I have no damn probs with a helmet and a roll cage.

I have a generic type base rail with RPM side mounts in my passeneger seat, check the height difference out. That's without sliders too.

BUT I didn't cut the middle out to drop it, don;t think I can with the width of the SPG-N.

post-8405-1281065615_thumb.jpg

omg thats great :( sorry to be a pain but how much do you reckon the driving height would have been lowered from a GT-R seat?

wish my car was here and not at the workshop so i could actually go measure.

From memory about 25/30 mil. You can also rake the seat back a bit to give yourself more head room by going to a lower slot on the back.

  • Nope 1
I have a generic type base rail with RPM side mounts in my passeneger seat, check the height difference out. That's without sliders too.

BUT I didn't cut the middle out to drop it, don;t think I can with the width of the SPG-N.

I see what you mean phunk. That rail is a different animal to mine. Mine is actually a slider and is way lower than that puppy.

  • Nope 1
wish my car was here and not at the workshop so i could actually go measure.

From memory about 25/30 mil. You can also rake the seat back a bit to give yourself more head room by going to a lower slot on the back.

yeah tru that, beautiful cant wait to get it, do you remember what the name of the rail was?

Now that I cant help you with. what I can tell you to assist with I.d. is that it has a lever on either side of the rail with a brass knob on the end. these levers are lifted to the verticval position to slide the rail and back to the horizontal to lock it in place.

  • Nope 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun.   One I did back in the day
    • have no doubt and wanted too trust me and may regret later not necessarily worried about weight (would be 8 kg ish total) it was more the $$ to do it properly is about $6 - $7K in hardwear need long 310mm stroke jacks etc - plus install and call me whatever im not doing it myself even if wanted too cant weld etc  - thats $10K installed vs fraction of that cost while Ive spent some money on this POS I actually really dont like doing so unless its got a large chance to make me go faster 😁 hey in still carting this things around on a 15 yr old rusted open trailer so I can spend on racing not buy a new trailer to look better the manual jacks Ive had done are heavy and take space but are transportable and usable anywhere - taking or organizing even compressed air let alone nitrogen which is more whats needed coming from Perth to Winton or Sydney or the like honestly just adds to my brain headaches/ hurts of organisation also ha 15 mins job will get down to 2 - 5 min job vs 1 min job for airjacks - all tradeoffs I spose
    • Purely out of curiosity, how do you know all this @dbm7? Do you work with automatic gearboxes professionally? This goes way way way beyond "I've had an automatic Skyline once and did some mucking around"
    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
×
×
  • Create New...