Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys i know its a close call , thought id better find out just before i commit to buying some more rims

can you tell me if 18x9.5 +12 offset allround will fit a R32 GTR

tyres are 225/40/18

has anyone got the same offset. The car has original ride height -

** i do not want to guard roll which is the last thing i want post-68456-1280916331_thumb.jpg

been there done that !

Thanks

Edited by NISSAN GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331674-can-these-fit-with-no-mods/
Share on other sites

Should be ok with those tyres, I have the same size wheels but with 265/35/18's and needed to roll the lip up on all the guards. I can get a more indicative pic if you like.

:whistling: Does the edge of the rim protrude past the guard or is it flush .

:whistling: Does the edge of the rim protrude past the guard or is it flush .

You'll need a little negative camber to get them truly flush - otherwise the edge of the rim is very slightly outside the guard.. (only slightly though)

:whistling: Does the edge of the rim protrude past the guard or is it flush .

Some snaps. The 2 outdoors shots show prior to rolling guards front and rear, shocks removed and car lowered to get an idea of how tight it was. The one in the garage is after guards lipped and a little flaring to accommodate the rubber. Ride height is 340 rear and 350 front- hope this helps. (the last photo has the original GTR wheel on the front just in case that's confusing)

post-48345-1280925928_thumb.jpg

post-48345-1280925960_thumb.jpg

post-48345-1280926037_thumb.jpg

Edited by doo doo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...