Spark Plugs,

[Nick.]

Hey had a quick search,

i wanna get Ngk iridiums, whats the number/ gap for them thanks

[mad082]

BKR6EIX-11 or something like that

[sydking]

i think all NGK are iridium?

[SKiT_R31]

BKR6EIX-11 or something like that

Spot on

i think all NGK are iridium?

Neg, Standard plug is nickel - the ix in the code above stands for iridium. A nickel plug would be BKR6E-11 or BKR6ES-11 (S is for standrard) the BK is thread type and is the same as BCPR6ES-11.

There is no performance gain, usually better off with normal nickels unless you are after less frequent plug changes (which isn’t recommended for performance anyway). The plugs on RB's are easy to get to, so there is no reason you wouldn’t want frequent changes, but each to their own.

Your better off spending your money on higher quality oil, like fully synthetic 5w-50 (if you dont already) or saving it for actual performance mods.

[Jezza-gtR]

Dont bother spending extra cash, just get coppers, use BKR6E-11 for N/A.

[Galois]

pretty sure the ngk are coppers, not nickels. the bcpr6es-11 and bkr6es-11 are copper plugs gapped at 1.1, if the op is interested. both are fine, the bcpr is slightly longer so goes further into the coilpack.

iridiums have a wide variety of success, from lasting less than coppers to actually lasting many tens of thousands of km. have a look in the spark plugs thread.

also, on oil, most people find a 10w40 the best oil for an rb engine. a w50 is very heavy, but that's much worse for turbo'd cars. either a 5w or 10w is fine, as long as it's a good mineral semisynthetic or a full synthetic, and changed every 5000 km (or at most 10000km for na). have a look in the oil thread for more info

Edited August 6, 2010 by Galois

[SKiT_R31]

Nickels just get called coppers, all spark plugs have a copper core but copper its self cannot handle the combustion temperature and pressure's - if it did, then it would be BY FAR the most superior conducting spark plug type.

http://environmentalchemistry.com/yogi/per...electrical.html (read bottom up)

Oil is a personal preference. If your car is ever driven hard, you are stupid to have anything but a full synthetic oil. I am very particular with oils and monitor my oil gauge pressures and temperatures carefully.

While yes, on an N/A 50w might be a bit excessive (with 40w being better) I would never run any thinner than a 50w, even with a decent full synthetic 50w oil (Mobil1) after a thrash my oil gets dangerously thin. Oils any thinner or any lower quality (nulon 100% synthetic for example, even in a 50w, once hot is pathetic).

My engine is turbo though, but is in a cooler climate. The oil still got very thin on long run summer days (when N/A).

I would never go a 10w40, would rather Mobil1 0w/40 (but at a zillion dollars), why would you want a thicker cold start... It’s already off the charts in pressure at my 5w.

[Galois]

Nickels just get called coppers, all spark plugs have a copper core but copper its self cannot handle the combustion temperature and pressure's - if it did, then it would be BY FAR the most superior conducting spark plug type.

http://environmentalchemistry.com/yogi/per...electrical.html (read bottom up)

yeah i get the conductivity side, i always just thought it was a copper alloy.

Oil is a personal preference. If your car is ever driven hard, you are stupid to have anything but a full synthetic oil. I am very particular with oils and monitor my oil gauge pressures and temperatures carefully.

While yes, on an N/A 50w might be a bit excessive (with 40w being better) I would never run any thinner than a 50w, even with a decent full synthetic 50w oil (Mobil1) after a thrash my oil gets dangerously thin. Oils any thinner or any lower quality (nulon 100% synthetic for example, even in a 50w, once hot is pathetic).

My engine is turbo though, but is in a cooler climate. The oil still got very thin on long run summer days (when N/A).

I would never go a 10w40, would rather Mobil1 0w/40 (but at a zillion dollars), why would you want a thicker cold start... It's already off the charts in pressure at my 5w.

nissan says run a 7.5w30, but that's in japan where it's slightly cooler, and for when the car is new.

the thinner the oil the more wear it allows, that's why people vary between 0w and 10w.

the general guide for oil is use a w40, based on all the testimonies in the oils thread about cars running badly on w50. it's a balance between getting fresh oil constantly to all parts of the engine/turbo and making sure once it gets there it's think enough to provide adequate lubrication.

when you say dangerously thin, is this something you've observed, like hearing the lifters or something?

[mad082]

'copper' spark plugs generally have a nickel electrode tip with a copper core (or something like that)

[SKiT_R31]

nissan says run a 7.5w30, but that's in japan where it's slightly cooler, and for when the car is new.

the thinner the oil the more wear it allows, that's why people vary between 0w and 10w.

the general guide for oil is use a w40, based on all the testimonies in the oils thread about cars running badly on w50. it's a balance between getting fresh oil constantly to all parts of the engine/turbo and making sure once it gets there it's think enough to provide adequate lubrication.

when you say dangerously thin, is this something you've observed, like hearing the lifters or something?

It's something I’ve observed from oil pressure & temp gauges.

When cold it sits perfectly on 3/4, at temp on idle it’s at 1/4 and with revs/load it’s just under halfway.

And as the temps climb those pressures remain constant, only lowers once the oil is due for replacement (~ 5000k's). Mineral oils are pathetic, consistently get thinner with heat, and I’ve found nulon 10w/50 '100% synthetic' and another synthetic I’ve used (19=0w/40) is far too thick on startup (nearly max on the gauge) and way too thin with any heat (~1/8th on gauge at idle, 1/4 with load/revs).

Oil in an N/A will get hotter than in a det though, as they don’t have the water flowing through the filter point, among other reasons.

So yeah a 40w might be a good option, I’m just quite pedantic (having done bearings before) and like my pressures perfect (and watch them closely). BMW M series engines for example run 10w60 (Castrol RS), for the same reasons I run the thicker oil.

I have noticed no performance drop, and it’s worth it for peace of mind.

Anyway, not an oil thread

If you check ngk's website they do say a nickel alloy for there standard plugs http://ngk.com.au/sparkplug.php.

[sydking]

would a 7 heat rating be suitable for a N/A? also there a 0.8mm model but have been gaped to 1.1

[Jezza-gtR]

would a 7 heat rating be suitable for a N/A? also there a 0.8mm model but have been gaped to 1.1

Probably would be better with 6's, 1.1 is fine.

[Galois]

It's something I've observed from oil pressure & temp gauges.

When cold it sits perfectly on 3/4, at temp on idle it's at 1/4 and with revs/load it's just under halfway.

And as the temps climb those pressures remain constant, only lowers once the oil is due for replacement (~ 5000k's). Mineral oils are pathetic, consistently get thinner with heat, and I've found nulon 10w/50 '100% synthetic' and another synthetic I've used (19=0w/40) is far too thick on startup (nearly max on the gauge) and way too thin with any heat (~1/8th on gauge at idle, 1/4 with load/revs).

Oil in an N/A will get hotter than in a det though, as they don't have the water flowing through the filter point, among other reasons.

So yeah a 40w might be a good option, I'm just quite pedantic (having done bearings before) and like my pressures perfect (and watch them closely). BMW M series engines for example run 10w60 (Castrol RS), for the same reasons I run the thicker oil.

I have noticed no performance drop, and it's worth it for peace of mind.

Anyway, not an oil thread

If you check ngk's website they do say a nickel alloy for there standard plugs http://ngk.com.au/sparkplug.php.

yeah, not an oil thread, sorry for the diversion...

skit, are you using the stock pressure gauge? people reckon they're pretty unreliable.

that said, I do watch the pressure, tends to let me know if anything's wrong, when it's ok to give the car a squirt etc... but for less satisfied people, many of which are in the oils thread posted below, the w50 was a mistake. someone said quite a while ago that it didn't provide adequate lubrication for the turbo at temperature.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...&start=1640

anyways, oils seem to vary HEAPS for different cars, which is no surprise seeing as many of them have done over 100k kms plus whatever was taken off when they came over