Shifting Techniques

[Guest | hype^ |]

i might be up for a new gear box...

if so my old man (god bless him) wants to put in something better than stock..

race/performance gear box.. what ever the hell u wanna call em

nothing too over the top, just better...

any suggestions? and how much?

thanx yall

[meggala]

the os giken gear set is around 5 k then you move up to trust and hks stuff 10 k+ .

it would be easier if you learnt how to shift properly I know guys putting out 280 rwkw on stock rb25 boxes with out issues

meggala

[Guest | hype^ |]

i had that feeling... i told my dad that but he said just ask anyway..

ok let me change the topic of this thread...

new topic = how do u "shift properly" for performance and to avoid f*cking the gear box..??

both in normal driving and racing,,,

every1 is blaming me for what happened to my car..

but i honestly dont thrash it hard!!

i dont do burnouts, dont flat shift, any only dont those big starts (which were actually 3500 not 5000rpm) about 4 times..

iv only had the car for like 2-3 months and drive it about 1 day a week...

so i cant see how my driving style could have f*cked the box or clutch...

anyway please post your techniques here...

(if any admin are able to change the topic it would be nice)

[d0p3y]

done

[Guest | hype^ |]

thanx ryan..

[Evan]

Clutch is easy to destroy, but who cares, ok its good to not to and good to shift well but clutches are cheaper than boxes.

Constant high rpm changes into the higher gears will kill the synco's for sure but thats something you have to live with.

Match revs when downshifting will make your syncros work a lot less hard and and will improve your driving style. You dont really need this for street just more on the track or really fanging it.

Suspect your box was on the way when you bought the car.

E

[AndyMac]

Hype.

There is no point in this matey. There is no way in the whole wide world that someone will be able to explain a shift techinque over the forum.

You got to either get someone who knows what their doing to teach you or even better, take a course with a professional.

Its also something that comes from screwing up a few times (aka personal expirence). You'll be alot quicker and take care of the car a hell lot more if you do too.

[Micko]

What's actually wrong with it?

There is a synchro problem on 3rd-4th upshift in my car. The previous owner fixed it with some Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof oil (I think that's it - I can clarify if you want). Costs about $100 but it sure as hell fixed the problem & now the box is nicer than ever. I believe your box is pretty much the same as the one on my car.

Hope this helps,

Mike.

[Guest | hype^ |]

dont know for sure yet..

the mechanic didnt get around to lookin today so hopefully 2morrow

hopefully its just the clutch

but i should be right im covered for 1250$ for another box from the warrenty..

yeh i think ur right peak..

i just wanted some pointers, iv never had anything even close to a powerfuly car b4 so even if i was doin everthing wrong.. i wouldnt know...

i was gonna do a course but u know how it is .....$$$$'s....

[gtrken]

Originally posted by Micko

What's actually wrong with it?

There is a synchro problem on 3rd-4th upshift in my car. The previous owner fixed it with some Redline Heavy Duty Shockproof oil (I think that's it - I can clarify if you want). Costs about $100 but it sure as hell fixed the problem & now the box is nicer than ever. I believe your box is pretty much the same as the one on my car.

Hope this helps,

Mike.

Lightweight shockproof ( the blue stuff ).Heavy weight was the last resort but slows the shift .

BTW , it also cured the upshift syncro problem on my 300zx TT which is virtually the same as a 33 GTST gearbox.

Ken

[AndyMac]

Originally posted by | hype^ |

but i honestly dont thrash it hard!!

i dont do burnouts, dont flat shift, any only dont those big starts (which were actually 3500 not 5000rpm) about 4 times..  

I don't get the big start thing. If I launch harder then 4000 I'll sit still and spin the rear wheels.

4000 gets one or two skips before it grips and goes...

[Blitz]

Trust 6 speed will do the trick

[fatz]

dont use the clutch when changing.

5000 ks youll be calling for a new box and just give the bill to the warranty people

and or get the new box sell yours and put the money towards the new one

pete

[blind_elk]

One thing I have learned to do is, on upshifts, give a small (about 1/4 sec is more than enough) pause between gears, ie foot on clutch, out of gear to neutral, PAUSE, into next gear. Allows the synchros to mesh nicely, particularly if you've installed a short shift kit.

(Totally different on the track, just rip it through!)

Also, learn to heel-toe on down-changes, that should save a lot of wear-n-tear on the whole drivetrain.

[rev210]

A point worth remembering is to avoid the habbit of resting your hand on the gearshift when driving along (ie: get your hand off it!).

By resting your hand there you can cause 'over-selecting' pressure on the shift fork and wear out the syncro. This is most common in the upshift syncro to 4th. A symptom cars can have even when they have never been thrashed. * Short shifter kits make this problem worse.

Also I change my gearbox and diff oil every 15k or so, as per the factory reccomendation. Lots of farqared diff's and gearboxes are the result of pemature wear on various high stress parts, caused no doubt by oil that has long since broken down (as all oils do) and stopped effectively protecting. Some people must think their gearbox/diff oil is 'magic' the way they don't ever change it. If you do burnouts change more frequently, I used to after every good tyre shedding session ( nice silver sparkly gear oil comes out every time - yet other people will still not change it until they replace the diff center?).

Warm up the gearbox and diff, there are some dissimilar metals used in the construction of these things with different expansion rates, not least of which are the bearings. Before a good thrash warm up everything!

[raist60]

http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/notebook/shifting/

Good site explaining good shift practises

[Guest | hype^ |]

thanx all for your help./

greats tips there..

except i dont know about the one about intensionally killing the box.. warranty doesnt cover driver abuse..

[Evan]

rev210 had some damn good points, i wasn't thinking about that cause i always warm up and change oil every 5000kms or 10,000 if not been driving too hard.

When you do the diff oil dont forget to wipe the magnet clean of any metal gunk so it works better and also so you can see how much metal is comming adrift between changes.

E

[Guest mooks66]

sounds like the previous owner to you didnt know how to drive manual and made the box **** itself

i always thought nissan boxes were indestructable

[funkymonkey]

Originally posted by fatz

dont use the clutch when changing

eh??? how do u drive a manual without using a clutch?