Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Quick story i had an engine rebuilt, the plenum was faulty (cheap china...so replaced with genuine greddy) but before it could be replaced my oil filter blew off...interesting...took to mechanic he tried a couple times same result...we both put it down to faulty relief valve in pump.

A new geunine N1 pump arrives...goto install that...installed then to have a look in the oil pan to find an oil squirter and one of its brothers detroyed next to it...so I'm wandering what is actually involved in replacing the oil squirters in an rb25.

All this was done at the mechanics and I will be talking to the engine builder but I just want to get an idea myself as it looks like they were either installed the wrong way (pointing down) or from an rb20?!?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331856-snapped-oil-squirters/
Share on other sites

I'm sorry but your mechanic with the oil filter is probably not too bright. He is probably using the wrong threaded oil filter. These will seal up to 200psi so it's not likely to be a faulty relief valve. Have never seen one as yet and the engine builder should have checked that anyway.

The squirters on a 20 are the same as a 25 and they can be broken if not installed correctly or if the piston is put in back to front.

Either way, the engine builder needs a talking to

Thanks for the reply...as for the filter it was a genuine nissan and the gauge could only read 150psi, they tried 3 times and the same result...as for the engine (as i just want to get an idea) that would require removing the head to get to the nut that holds the squirter correct?!?

Will the complete engine need to go through an entire cleaning process due to metal fragments everywhere or just hope on the filter picking it out :( not taking into consideration that the squirters may have damaged the pistons...

haha don't mention the word rebuild...I only clocked 500ks on it and that was babied, highest rpm would have been 5k

and I would have to agree turning it over by hand would have been the first thing to foul...maybe incorrect torque setting and then when put under load has come free...either way I'm still waiting on reply from builder as it was done interstate :(

It probably needs to be rebuilt, sounds like some serious issues with it to be honest.

I would have thought spinning it over by hand after the rebuild would have revealed rather quickly that the squirters were wrong.

incorrect clearance may snap them also, ive seen Arias pistons snap these quite often as was the case in my 25 with previous builder not ensuring at least 2mm (80 thou) clearance. Engine will still turn over by hand but will strike oil jets once rpm, piston expansion and rod stretch come into play. To obtain correct clearance aluminium or copper crush washers are used but must not be too thick as to shorten crank counterweight clearance.

yes engine builder id hazzard a guess is a novice.

Edited by blitzxtr
incorrect clearance may snap them also, ive seen Arias pistons snap these quite often as was the case in my 25 with previous builder not ensuring at least 2mm (80 thou) clearance. Engine will still turn over by hand but will strike oil jets once rpm, piston expansion and rod stretch come into play. To obtain correct clearance aluminium or copper crush washers are used but must not be too thick as to shorten crank counterweight clearance.

yes engine builder id hazzard a guess is a novice.

The rep of the builder is quite good (not going to mention openly on forum) so I'm a little shocked about it...and the pistons are JE Forged .5mm over

haha don't mention the word rebuild...I only clocked 500ks on it and that was babied, highest rpm would have been 5k

and I would have to agree turning it over by hand would have been the first thing to foul...maybe incorrect torque setting and then when put under load has come free...either way I'm still waiting on reply from builder as it was done interstate :(

thats definately not the way to run in an engine. If your builder advised you to do that id be very concerned.

No those were the ks I put on after the run in was done on the dyno.

ahh, sweet. Check the piston skirts for marking, if its in one spot id suggest incorrect clearance. If its several marks moving around id say they were not torqued. 25ft/lb for those puppies :(

gonna need almost a full strip down to check and replace.

the oil filter is a wierd one, wat oil filter is it? Z145a? or something else.

Well it looks like there wasn't enough clearence on the pistons for the squirters and will be completely torn apart to find the rest.

The filter was a genuine Nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...