Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cause i have that much money to do a conversion >.>" lol

so for my tune 10psi yes? if it breaks on the dyno i can blame you's guys ok? good :worship: keeping in mind this 25 has 183xxxkm's on it? 10psi still recomended?

its just i can afford another 2nd hand motor but i just cant be farkked having to do a engine swap if it goes bang while being tuned -.-"

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

+1 for sticking in 12psi. Why bother with engine management if you arent going to stick in some proper boost and make the most of it.

here's where it got me. 277atw :rolleyes:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...79#entry5379379

lol i dont think i'll go that far, but thanks for the input anyway! errm another question to ask. ive just got a power fc and im going to get the car tuned fairly soon, how much power from standard will be looking at?

mods ive got are:

fmic

splitfires

split dump with 3" piping all the way to a cannon (no mufflers)

boosting 5>7psi

Edited by jjman
If you want to strip out your car, then do as I'm doing ;)

Rip out all the interior

post-1397-1282298640_thumb.jpg

and remove the glass from the windows

post-1397-1282298650_thumb.jpg

lol! nice mate, i bet that makes a noticable diffrence! :P some how i think cops would be questioning where my interior has gone... =P

"i spilt coffee on it officer :) so i pulled it out to be dry cleaned"

some how i think cops would be questioning where my interior has gone... =P

"i spilt coffee on it officer ;) so i pulled it out to be dry cleaned"

Yeah, the cops noticed it didn't have much interior, and a half cage, but didn't believe me about the coffee either :)

reo bar in the bumper is good for about 6kg, but it becomes illegal once you remove it as you have compromised the front end....6kg doesnt sound like heaps.....but its at the very very very front, makes a slight different, ac can go, so then can the condensor, boot trims, spare, jack etc. rear body trims, then it starts getting difficult...wat luxuries can you live without......how much time you going to spend driving....its all bout compromise at this point....lighter seats..removing non-essential bolts is good at removing a few kg, but then you drive down the road thinking....is my gearbox going to drop out coz i took out that many bolts....so i dont recommend it....lighter rims, lighter lug nuts (can be good for a kg in total), carbon fiber boot and bonnet,....thats about the MAX you'd go for a street car....

the entire ac system was good for 24kg in my 84 ma61 Supra (so compressor, brackets, condensor, drier, front end lines)

Edited by woggin
For sure ^ You don't need a floor either. Cut that bitch out and just hang onto the steering wheel.

Lol, reminds me of the first fast n furious when that super street spec chequer plate goes flying.

Danger to teh manifold.. lol

As for real weight saving the guys have allready said all the easy street spec stuff,

your next step would be replacing all glass with polly, replacing big metal fuel tank with a fuel cell. Ultra light battery, carbon shafts, Ti exaust, Stripped loom and the list goes on..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...