Help Me Install My New Hicas Controller
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
might as well go e-throttle -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
FWIW, I've always found Toyota A/Cs to be much colder than Nissan ones. Even that 2024 Nissan X-Trail (that VW Australia lent to me), the A/C isn't as cold as other base model Toyota Corollas/Camrys, etc. Maybe Toyota A/C compressors are superior? -
Hurry while stocks last! 🤣 13% points redemption on this $6000 Mont Blanc "James Dean" ballpoint pen at Yodobashi Camera in Umeda, Osaka -
It's not that at all....I just love the R chassis too much to keep racing it! Absolutely impossible to fix the damn thing if I bend it.... That last off I had (when I neglected to do what Kel said), we removed a gum tree with the side of the boot....needed a new rear quarter, boot lid, floor straighten, rear bar, front bar, both front guards, radiator, bov return and I still haven't got it back for a proper alignment to check it is actually straight again). There are just too many ways in tarmac rally to do significant damage to a car that you can't really get parts for. -
Now I'd said earlier I'd checked the fuses, and per @Stick180's suggestion I checked them all again. The check was to use the multimeter in continuity mode on the top of each fuse where the little metal tabs are available for that purpose. All good....except that very "A/T Control" fuse was actually blown when I pulled it out and looked at it. Put it back in, tested it again, there is continuity to both sides even though the fuse is blown. I'll need someone smarter than me, but my suspicion is that I was getting a circuit through a power supply, through an incandescent globe somewhere, to earth, to the shorted wire and back to the other side of the fuse, making it look like the fuse was OK when it wasn't....please anyone that understands this f**kery explain it to me. Bottom line....that suspicious purple/white wire, in an undamaged factory loom, that goes to the the wrong place in the fuse box has a dead short to earth, confirmed from both ends. How a single wire in a factory loom can be shorted, especially the best protected loom in the whole car (underneath the top of the dash) is going to keep me awake at night because surely whatever caused the damage has (or will) damaged other wires in that loom too. So, to finish this long and sad story....cut the purple/white wire where it exits the fuse box, ran a new wire from there to the ECU loom pin 31, fired it up and drove happily into the sunset. Only 4 days of head scratching and peering into footwells to get me there. Another collection of wire removed (in addition to the earlier photo) and a bunch of 10a fuses that gave their lives for the trouble shooting....thank you for their service. And, since the car was in the shed I resealed the cam cover (first time I've ever had a new seal leak on an RB, but the Stagea is that kind of lucky), and I put in the boost doc cam splash plates to try and turn down the blow by a bit while I was there. Which, was all good because it also let me find the slow coolant leak, turns out it was from the turbo water supply which I nipped up again (the banjo bolt got new washers, and I tightened the hose end and hose to banjo fitting while I was there)
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