Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Me Install My New Hicas Controller

Deano 1
 Share

Recommended Posts

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

Hey guys and gals

i brought this hicas controller for the track, as i dont want to run a lock bar, and i like my hicas.

so i chased down one of these Grid Hicas controller thingo's so i can just turn it off as i roll through the gates at the track, and back on when i want. The kit comes with everything including the instructions...

Now the instructions seam to be translated by someone with not very good english skills and its kinda confusing. so ive taken a pic of the instructions and the rest of the kit, and i gunna ask you guys what you make of it. i have a rough idea in my head of what to do. so all i need is someone to say back the same thing and ill be ready to cut the wires...... :P

but without being 110% sure if im right im not goin down to the garage to start hacking my hicas wires up... haha if you no what i mean.

anyway thanks heaps all

also if anyone has installed one of these plz let me no how it went and how u stalled it.

cheers :ermm:

post-16000-1281226992_thumb.jpg

post-16000-1281227147_thumb.jpg

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

to me, that says cut the wire going to pin 18 and connect the yellow wire of your kit to the connector block side and the purple wire to the loom (the loose wire end in the bundle).

Also, make sure you certainly fix the silver main part to a frame with a nut :ermm:

interesting idea though - i'd be keen to know how it fares on the track and what it costs :P

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i dont mind it aye, but in saying that ive never tryed it without it, hense the reason i brought this kit, so i can just switch between what i like and what i dont.... its just abit of a mess to wire up casue theres not alot of info on it. i cant seem to work out what Pin 18 is....

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
i had a looks at my hicas unit sarvo, dosent seam like its goin to be easy to work out which pin is 18... anyone shed some light?

Um, it shouldn't be hard at all. Find the HICAS units under the parcel shelf. Grab the plug & match up pin 18.

hicas_pins.pdf

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Um, it shouldn't be hard at all. Find the HICAS units under the parcel shelf. Grab the plug & match up pin 18.

thanks mate,

all installed now, took it for a short drive today between showers, seamed to be alot more direct in the steering. Ill be able to see how much better it is once the roads are dry. Deff awsome just being able to switch it on and off!

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
Doesn't it adjust your line mid courner? I take a fast courner, pick my line.. then the HICAS adjust's my rear wheels and effectivly oversteers me into the curb.. SCARY STUFF!

Can't say I've noticed this in mine at all.

Deano, keen for more results once you get some dry roads :)

  • 1 month later...
blackbetty Newbie

blackbetty

Posted
Posted
thanks mate,

all installed now, took it for a short drive today between showers, seamed to be alot more direct in the steering. Ill be able to see how much better it is once the roads are dry. Deff awsome just being able to switch it on and off!

hi Deano, my controller has been wired up to take the same sort of switch you have. Can you give me the details please. Thanks,Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...