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$4k ? looks like somebody's putting on a lot of markup..

Try these guys.. http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/cat...ategory26_1.htm

GT30 - $2,304.50 inc GST within Australia. Sure you'll need to factor in ext. wastegate and a few other things which you don't with the highflow, but not too much difference in price there. And if you are willing to try/risk a 2nd hand HKS unit there are plenty of them around for about $2k.

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$3425 + freight to be exact (Turbo = $2300, Wastegate = $750, $225 Oil Lines, Manifold = $150) .... i've already emailed them.

Edit: Now is a GT30 really 50% better than a Hiflowed Stock turbo ?

Sydneykid

Does every car in your workshop has a GCG turbo fitted to it? Coz i have never seen you mention any other turbo.

DJ_L3ThAL

You should copy me and go for nice high mount GT30 with custom manifold and ex gate. U know you want to. :P

lol

on a more serious note, my cars sitting at ice now with turbo and manifold etc off (coz a manifold stud snapped) and thats been fixed but its sitting now until i decide whether to do the turbo/injectors etc now or not, im waiting on a quote for a 3037 (internal wastegate) garett type turbo, 700*ish*cc injectors and a large bosch fuel pump and Z32 AFM all fitted tuned etc

would this setup be nice for a street setup if i was pushing 250rwkw form it with stock engine ? or should i go a smaller turbo like a 2530 or T517z ?

I have all that stuff and can give u prices for all of em.

As for internal gated 3037 dont bother as the internal gate wont be able to bypass enough gas to keep boost stable. Plus once u hear the external gate roar u will love it.

Hence why im geting a screamer.

Mr DJ

I suggest wait till my car is done... and use me an a guinea pig :P

Im going Garret 3040 Ext Gate.

Yeah it's going to make more than 250rwkw but on my stock motor for time being, seeing how 240rwkw goes will be interesting i think.

And then go from there.

You just gotta get over this issue that im ALWAYS going to beat your rice box :)

Hi Inasnt, oh no, we have N1 turbos on the Production Racing GTR, the IP race GTST has a Garrett T66 (the GT30 was too small), the RX7 has an Apexi, the road GTR has a pair of HKS 2530's (my personal favourite), the hydroplane big block has a Littlefield 671 (that's a blower), the Commondoor has Harrop injection (not allowed to run a turbo on that one), the white R34 GTT has a Trust T78 (not my favourite) and the black R34 GTT has a GCG hi flow. There are a few I have missed, but I think you get the drift.

We had a GT3040 on the RB31DET powered R32 GTST IP race car, but it was too small so we tried a GT35R and it was OK but we found the T66 was just a bit better. We then put the GT3040 on the black R34 GTT for 6 months or so, it was quicker at the drags but way too hard to drive on the road every day, in traffic and in the wet. So we put the GCG hi flow back on, not as fast, but a great daily driver that sees the strip and the circuit a few times a year.

I'd much rather recommend things that work for us, in circumstances that people ask. If I wanted a drag RB25DET that only got driven on the road occasionally, then a GT30 would be on the list. But that is a pretty narrow number of people compared to the other alternatives.

Horses for courses as they say.

H inasnt, you asked "Y was the GT30 hard to drive on the road?"

It was OK off boost, drove quite nicely actually. It was OK on boost, lots of power (305 rwkw), OK throttle response, not brilliant, but OK. The problem was in the 1,000 rpm transition from no boost to 1.5 bar. It was basically undriveable, in that area from 4,000 rpm to 5,000 rpm, because it went from 80 rwkw to 240 rwkw. The power graph was almost verticle.

So, I would be driving along and want to go a little bit faster, if it was at 4,000 rpm it accelerated like an 80 rwkw car. But at 4,400 rpm it accelerated like a 170 rwkw car. Now that 's a huge difference. Try that in traffic or in the wet? I used to have to constantly watch the tacho and the boost gauge to guess how much throttle to use. Passengers had whiplash.

Everyday going to work in the traffic for an hour each way, it simply wears you out. It got to the stage where I set the shift light at 3,750 rpm and drove it around off boost all the time. What a waste. I only realised how stupid it was when I got into one of the other Skylines with 250 rwkw and I could drive it much faster and with more confidence because it had a linear power delivery.

So I stuck the GCG hi flow back on and used the GT30 on the RB31DET for while until we upgrade that. I guess if you liked that nothing, nothing, bang, type of power delivery then the GT30 on an RB25 would be great. Or if you don't drive in 2 hours of traffic each day. It just doesn't suite me, but it would be very boring if we were all the same.

Hope that helps.

hi guys, im still sorting out my HKS 2530 and thought id throw in my thoughts..

i was either gonna do the high flow option from gcg or the 2530. I went the 2530 as i heard that the highflows were laggier and required more boost for the same power as the HKS. I dont know if this is true, but rumours do steer purchases! Also i wanted the HKS name part under the bonnet!!

Initial tune had 227.5rwkw at 1.2 bar, with the AFM maxing out, and a stock dump pipe.

I whacked on a brand new HKS split dump and brand new z32 AFM, and dropped 3.5rwkw, bringing me to about 224rwkw on the same dyno! I was frustrated, as i expected a good 10rwkw more.

The problem was obvious, the source of the problem wasnt so obvious. The problem was that boost would rise to 1.2 bar, then drop steadily down to 1bar, giving me no hope of a better peak power figure. The problem it now seems, is that the rubber intake tube sucks shut. I dont know why it didnt do it before the dump and AFM, but its doing it now! Waiting to fit a new pipe in between the AFM and the turbo then go back to the dyno.

i dont have torque figures on my dyno printouts but from memory the new dump and afm i picked up something like 50nm extra torque at the wheels. I just have less top end for the time being.

The point of relevance to this thread should probably be that the midrange torque increase from this size turbo is more important than its peak power. At the moment i only have 24rwkw more than i had with the stock turbo, but the car feels twice as quick to drive, even shifting at 6000rpm. Jump back into a 200rwkw stock turbo r33 and it feels like a slug!

go the torque! cant wait to get mine peaking at the top end though.. i will continue my GT2530 Results thread once i get it sorted.

paid 1800$ for my turbo with all accessories needed to fit bar a braided line. Apparently it was only a couple of thousand kms old, had it inspected also. Running std injectors but they peak at 80 odd % on the dyno, and 90 odd % on the street. Yes i need new injectors!

also note that if you are getting an HKS turbo, the stock r33 dump isnt really suitable. There is not enough room for the wastegate (which can pretty much be seen from just looking at a stock dump!), and i had a fair bit of boost fluctuation.

H inasnt, you asked "Y didnt you just run a dual stage EBC so for heavy traffic you could be only running like 0.8 bar boost which would make the power delivery much smoother?"

Wouldn't have helped, it made 230 rwkw at 0.8 bar and it got to that boost at 4,500 rpm. Same problem, 80 rwkw at 4,000 rpm and 160 rwkw at 4,400 rpm. Not enough difference, so I would have had to drop it to 0.5 bar where it made about 190 rwkw. Now that makes no sense, why drive around at 190 rwkw (or 230 rwkw for that matter) when I can change the turbo and drive around at 250 rwkw comfortably.

The problem was not the amount of maximum power, so much as how it was delivered. I simply didn't like it, other people drove the car and loved it, it's a personal choice.

Hi RBhead, R33 gtst standard injectors will have no problems supplying 220 rwkw, as long as it is tuned correctly of course.

Hope that helps

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