Japlink Motors '94 R32 Gt-r Vspec Ii

[Braddock]

Hey guys,

I just had a quick look along paramatta road and saw this

http://www.japlinkmotors.com.au/zoom.php?id=137

They have $28k on it, but pretty much offered it up for $22k without me even haggling!? so, not sure

if that means there's something wrong with it or what... I did spot some over spray on the drivers side skirt.

Totally original, including exhaust, no dash bubbles etc

Will go back tomorrow when I have more time to look properly.

Think I'll cancel the inspection on the one I've been looking at, I need to put more time into looking.

Edited August 10, 2010 by Braddock

[GTRsean]

Looks neat. Did you take it for a test drive?

And if it has original turbo's, I'd be replacing them with some fresh garretts!

[Braddock]

No, it was almost dark, so I'll go back tomorrow.

Mate, that's the last thing I want to do - spend more cash the second I buy it!

Is there something wrong with the standard ones? or you mean for more power?

Looks neat. Did you take it for a test drive?

And if it has original turbo's, I'd be replacing them with some fresh garretts!

[iplen]

Things to check:

*Model Code, must end in AA to be a V-spec I or II (link from "Babyskyline" http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html )

*Build date must 1993 for V-spec I, 1994 for V-spec II

*Should have a finned rear diff housing (easy and common to change though apparently)

*Brembos (again easy to add)

*Rust around boot, inside wheel wells.

*Amount of black paint on the plenum, (Refer photo, the less black paint the more it has been flogged)

*Trim around the rear side windows, if it does not fit, it has had body work

* if this is all good then I will look forward to seeing your V-SpecII next to mine at the R32 21st anniversary cruise!

[Braddock]

Thanks Ian!

Things to check:

*Model Code, must end in AA to be a V-spec I or II (link from "Babyskyline" http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html )

*Build date must 1993 for V-spec I, 1994 for V-spec II

*Should have a finned rear diff housing (easy and common to change though apparently)

*Brembos (again easy to add)

*Rust around boot, inside wheel wells.

*Amount of black paint on the plenum, (Refer photo, the less black paint the more it has been flogged)

*Trim around the rear side windows, if it does not fit, it has had body work

* if this is all good then I will look forward to seeing your V-SpecII next to mine at the R32 21st anniversary cruise!

[Braddock]

I actually took a photo of the plate... I can make out the 8 but it looks like the remaining letters have been scratched off

[iplen]

Forgot the photo after all that!!! No worries, spent a long time looking for mine,

don't bother looking at the speedo for kilometres,

*pedal pads getting worn and leather around the handbrake/gearstick cracking happen around 100k

*as far as turbos go refer to my reply in your other thread, Timing belt would be the thing I would worry about more.

[Braddock]

Mate, are you sure that Chassis plate link is correct?

Because if it is, according to the plate on this car, the car should be white, not silver!

Things to check:

*Model Code, must end in AA to be a V-spec I or II (link from "Babyskyline" http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html )

*Build date must 1993 for V-spec I, 1994 for V-spec II

*Should have a finned rear diff housing (easy and common to change though apparently)

*Brembos (again easy to add)

*Rust around boot, inside wheel wells.

*Amount of black paint on the plenum, (Refer photo, the less black paint the more it has been flogged)

*Trim around the rear side windows, if it does not fit, it has had body work

* if this is all good then I will look forward to seeing your V-SpecII next to mine at the R32 21st anniversary cruise!

[Ten Four]

Plenums can easily be repainted and stock gearknob/leather surrounds are easily changed too...

Edited August 10, 2010 by Ten Four

[Braddock]

Hmmm, silver V spec II - only colour they come in, with a chassis plate for a white car?

Is there anyone who can verify the paint codes? it should be BLO - not KLO

Mate, are you sure that Chassis plate link is correct?

Because if it is, according to the plate on this car, the car should be white, not silver!

[Braddock]

Its definitely suspect! also convenient that the last few letters are scraped off the ID number

Its actually the '8' though that designates V-Spec not the AA and it does appear to have an '8' after the S

but am I wrong, or were there no white V Specs made?

Doesn't add up.

Plenums can easily be repainted and stock gearknob/leather surrounds are easily changed too...

Edit: Nice spot braddock. Vin switcharoo?

[Ten Four]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...es-t138419.html

KL0 is correct for silver.

Link earlier is incorrect..

Edited August 10, 2010 by Ten Four

[iplen]

Every standard color was available in V-spec II, the pop rivets holding the build plate on look mighty strange too...

[Braddock]

Ok thanks.

Geeze! haha, this whole buying a GTR thing really is a phucking detectives game!

Buyer beware.

Every standard color was available in V-spec II, the pop rivets holding the build plate on look mighty strange too...

[Braddock]

Ok, cheers mate, I'll call off the dogs.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...es-t138419.html

KL0 is correct for silver.

Link earlier is incorrect..

[Ten Four]

Lol, the vin still looks suspect though..

As others have said, if it feels right then why not? Can always get it inspected...

Edited August 10, 2010 by Ten Four

[Braddock]

The number, or the whole plate?

This is form the "what to look for thread" This plate was definitely etched... not engraved, but not print smooth either

The BLUE Nissan Build Plate should have the details PRINTED on it... i.e. If you run your fingers over the details printed on it, it should be smooth. IT SHOULD NOT BE ENGRAVED... If it's engraved, it has a fake Nissan Build Plate with a fake Chassis Number. These are forged and put on stolen cars with a new and legitimate chassis number.

This BLUE Nissan Build Plate *should* also have two white plastic rivet-like fasteners holding it on... If they're missing, ask yourself why. The Build plate should NEVER be removed, unless perhaps for a full respray including engine bay...

Lol, the vin still looks suspect though..

[Ten Four]

Just the scratch on the model number where it matters for a VSPEC II.

Run the Vin through nissan fast? That'll let you know for sure.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...&start=1220

Edited August 10, 2010 by Ten Four

[Braddock]

Will do, cheers mate.

Just the scratch on the model number where it matters for a VSPEC II.

Run the Vin through nissan fast? That'll let you know for sure.

[racer98]

Every standard color was available in V-spec II, the pop rivets holding the build plate on look mighty strange too...

same thing as you were thinking, does any one have the body # will ask to someone in japan to verify this. The bumper insert are after market and not a stock Vspec item.