Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I just personally prefer the 32 - it was the car that dominated Bathurst, and I prefer

the way they look... even if a little dated.

I'll avoid this V spec though.

You can get R33 GTR's for 20k in good nick.

Why would you waste time paying more for a R32?

I just personally prefer the 32 - it was the car that dominated Bathurst, and I prefer

the way they look... even if a little dated.

/quote]

Top Secret Imports are trying to get a couple of good quality R32 GT-Rs in for the 21st Anniversary.

Perhaps you can call them and see what's in the offing. 9676 1023.

They've been looking; but there are none worthy on the auction system atm.

I'd still call them though to see if you can be short-listed to reserve one.

Otherwise keep checking with Northshore Prestige and Nagoya Motors too.

I just took the V spec for a drive out or curiosity.

It's certainly not pristine, its taken a whack under the drivers side sill, and there's respray in that area, so its been like that for a while.

There was also water in the boot around the spare wheel well.

It seems to drive quite well, but the clutch action is right up top, so it's on it's way out, and smelled quite a bit.

I'd say it's a $15k car riding on it's V Spec badge to fetch a higher than deserved price.

This was just a quick assessment, I dare say a qualified inspector would have a field day.

The guys working there seemed genuine enough and not pushy, the condition of the car just spoke for itself.

Every standard color was available in V-spec II, the pop rivets holding the build plate on look mighty strange too...

that is exactly how they normally look. they are a type of tamper proof rivet.

that is exactly how they normally look. they are a type of tamper proof rivet.

Not that I would ever have doubted the Baron, but turns out mine has those too!!! Statement withdrawn, they look perfectly normal

Ha, ok mate, good to know, because I often like to take on GT-Rs in my shitty Honda Civic :worship:

Good that you drove it...

My old R32 resides in NSW somewhere now. So, if you see a GMG R32 GTR that looks stock as a rock with WA plates, don't race cause you'll lose lol.

No mate, not off them, I think they're awesome, the R32 GT-R is a modern classic, but I've learned finding one is

going to take longer than a week and I really didn't know what to look for when I began. I'm in no rush, so I'll keep

an eye on this forum and on the used car websites.

I haven't ruled out an R34 either but I'd need to save for a good while longer... A gooood while longer.

The one I drove today is the first one I've driven, it was completely stock, and without doubt the fastest car

I've personally ever driven, so I cant imagine what a modded one would feel like!

lol

heard of a Dr Ron Laura? Hes got mostly BMWs and Euros and tracks them with his son in NSW.

Staying on topic, are you definitely off all GTRs now? :D

Go test drive a well modded one.. lol

  • 1 month later...
If you drive i modded one, I don't think you will go back to a stock car because it will feel like driving a 4 cylinder Camry. :)

This is so true. I go in a stock one thesedays and I really have to check the throttle is nailed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
    • I actually have an aftermarket hanger, the detschwerks x1 hanger, but my dw420 has never really sat in it correctly, good to know I can just modify it a bit to suit. Yeah cheers man will definitely have a play with it and hope it solves my dramas.
×
×
  • Create New...