Jump to content
SAU Community

Nm35 Sway Bars

Daleo

By Daleo,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 276
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Daleo
Daleo

+1 Once the bars are listed as a stock item by Whiteline, they will be available. Wayne is already in contact with one of his dealers to help us with Group Buys. I have not forgotten that people wa

Posted Images

Jetwreck Grand Master

Jetwreck

Posted
Posted
i think you meant 'chronic understeer' mate :P

lol....that's an easy fix..........most 4WD's will have a degree of understeer.....ours has that problem but it's no chronic it's more just a technique change in your driving.....my car tends to have more or an oversteer problem from the apex onwards(also before the apex sometimes)...turn in is fine(not perfect but fine)....being able to control that turn in from the front bars would be great hence the front bar......I don't want to go a harder bar in the rear atm moment as I will loose even more grip coming out of the corner....to me the front bar is the week link in our suspension!....driving with a little understeer does not bother me though!

Maybe the understeer is worse for all you guy's without the LSD:P

From what I felt from another one of M35 owners car on this forum with the BC suspension I would be more likely to spend my cash on a limo and front sway bar as the car was already tending to oversteer first before the apex and was looking also for more drive out of the corner!

Another of the forum guy's in an AR-X has both front and rear sway bars + the LSD and I have to admit while fun and predictable I found his car a little quick in the rear(in the wet).

anyway....just my thoughts

andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted
might add....both the owners were in the car at the same time as me driving there car!

what you done to my car...lol

Yes, I was there.

I would agree that with the rear sway bar on the middle setting the car can be a little taily in the wet. In the Dry thou, it is absolute magic. Just got to work out how to adjust it on the go...

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Mine is stock, but gets the ass out in the wet, but only at slow speed ie roundabouts. Never misbehaved itself at a higher speed. Might have something to do with instant engine response too...

The front needs the bar, you can feel those front tyres being leaned on hard! I think i'll get both ends sorted..

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

i think the LSD helps a lot!

id love to buy one, but they appear to be as rare as nismo ECUs for M35

but yes if i dont prepare the car for a corner, it understeers, i havent had it very sideways before, except in the way :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      NC MX5

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...