Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think 316 is the go, 5mm angle wont be breaking in a hurry and will never rust, not like zinc or gal. I wouldn't gusset it as this is supposed to be the weak point anyway.

Yeah, 316 is all we use.

So I recieved these in the mail from Wayne on Thursday, and fitted them Friday morning. They are a Whiteline 350Z Heavy Duty Swaybar Ball Link.

They replace this little fella;

The originals were still in ok condition; the boots were starting to perish a little, but still sealed. No free play, but not tight. So probably indicative of most examples fitted to local cars.

The Ball joint is more than twice the size of the original and should be able to take a hell of a lot more load, whilst still remaining quiet & maintenance free, unlike a race style aircraft or rose jointed link. As you can see, they came with neat little nylon shields to further protect the ball joint from stones, dirt etc.

I removed the rifling from the centres with a scalpel, and also cut them down to 10mm so they would fit neatly over the shaft hex, and not press against the ball joint dust shield.

They came with nyloc nuts, which I elected not to use; preferring to stay with the shouldered nuts used on the original links.

This decision was twofold;

1; Using the nylocs precludes the fitting of the dust shields, as you would need to put a spanner on the flats otherwise the shaft will turn as you try to do up the nyloc.

2; The originals were fine, and a little loctite will do the trick.

Fitted to the car;

Rolled the car up on some ramps, chocked front wheels, car in Park. Everything is accessible now.

I elected to remove the top mounts with the links attached and fit the new ones on the bench as space is limited. My top mounts were in perfect condition. The shafts are a bit longer than the originals, but do not cause any clearance issues under the car.

Once the mounts were bolted in and the sway bar was reattached, I locked up one side, ensuring the ball joints were at 90 deg angles as per the std links.

I then located the other to the swaybar and adjusted the turnbuckle until the swaybar was not preloaded in either direction NOTE *this must be done with the car on a flat, level surface* this was the n locked up.

All threads have a small amount of loctite 242 stick (low strength locking compound) just to be safe.

The original links are 110mm centre to centre, and the Whiteline links are 115mm fully wound in, with around 25mm of adjustment. They have an anodised billet turnbuckle which alows the user to allow for sway bar variance,and unload the sway bar at rest. I believe the greater length will reposition the swaybar closer to it's original alignment on lowered cars anyway.

So thats it; less than an hour fitted

I was fairly cynical going into this about the difference they would make with a Standard swaybar, but felt it was the best way to test definitively.

Bloody Hell!

At 60 km/h a sharp swerve in either direction ellicts instant response; you can feel the rear sway bar working faster than the front one, honestly feel like it's running a stiffer rear swaybar! There is obviously far less flexibility in these ball joints, as the vagueness just after turn in is completely gone, the car just dives in. I believe this will be even more pronounced with uprated swaybars.

Once fully loaded, they behave as normal; completely silent, no harshness, just like stock. But it definitely feels as if there is less roll and that the rear is reacting more quickly than the front.

I'm stunned at the difference these links made, for such a simple part, and I believe the adjustability may actually make life easier on the standard (under engineered) link top mounts, due to being able to reduce the angle of misalignment in lowered cars.

I'll be approaching Wayne very soon about a group buy, and he's assured me we'll have an extremely competitive price.

I'm happy to answer any questions you may have, and obviously, stay tuned for more developments

So I recieved these in the mail from Wayne on Thursday, and fitted them Friday morning. They are a Whiteline 350Z Heavy Duty Swaybar Ball Link.

They replace this little fella;

The originals were still in ok condition; the boots were starting to perish a little, but still sealed. No free play, but not tight. So probably indicative of most examples fitted to local cars.

The Ball joint is more than twice the size of the original and should be able to take a hell of a lot more load, whilst still remaining quiet & maintenance free, unlike a race style aircraft or rose jointed link. As you can see, they came with neat little nylon shields to further protect the ball joint from stones, dirt etc.

I removed the rifling from the centres with a scalpel, and also cut them down to 10mm so they would fit neatly over the shaft hex, and not press against the ball joint dust shield.

They came with nyloc nuts, which I elected not to use; preferring to stay with the shouldered nuts used on the original links.

This decision was twofold;

1; Using the nylocs precludes the fitting of the dust shields, as you would need to put a spanner on the flats otherwise the shaft will turn as you try to do up the nyloc.

2; The originals were fine, and a little loctite will do the trick.

Fitted to the car;

Rolled the car up on some ramps, chocked front wheels, car in Park. Everything is accessible now.

I elected to remove the top mounts with the links attached and fit the new ones on the bench as space is limited. My top mounts were in perfect condition. The shafts are a bit longer than the originals, but do not cause any clearance issues under the car.

Once the mounts were bolted in and the sway bar was reattached, I locked up one side, ensuring the ball joints were at 90 deg angles as per the std links.

I then located the other to the swaybar and adjusted the turnbuckle until the swaybar was not preloaded in either direction NOTE *this must be done with the car on a flat, level surface* this was the n locked up.

All threads have a small amount of loctite 242 stick (low strength locking compound) just to be safe.

The original links are 110mm centre to centre, and the Whiteline links are 115mm fully wound in, with around 25mm of adjustment. They have an anodised billet turnbuckle which alows the user to allow for sway bar variance,and unload the sway bar at rest. I believe the greater length will reposition the swaybar closer to it's original alignment on lowered cars anyway.

So thats it; less than an hour fitted

I was fairly cynical going into this about the difference they would make with a Standard swaybar, but felt it was the best way to test definitively.

Bloody Hell!

At 60 km/h a sharp swerve in either direction ellicts instant response; you can feel the rear sway bar working faster than the front one, honestly feel like it's running a stiffer rear swaybar! There is obviously far less flexibility in these ball joints, as the vagueness just after turn in is completely gone, the car just dives in. I believe this will be even more pronounced with uprated swaybars.

Once fully loaded, they behave as normal; completely silent, no harshness, just like stock. But it definitely feels as if there is less roll and that the rear is reacting more quickly than the front.

I'm stunned at the difference these links made, for such a simple part, and I believe the adjustability may actually make life easier on the standard (under engineered) link top mounts, due to being able to reduce the angle of misalignment in lowered cars.

I'll be approaching Wayne very soon about a group buy, and he's assured me we'll have an extremely competitive price.

I'm happy to answer any questions you may have, and obviously, stay tuned for more developments

Third time lucky :rolleyes: don't know why the pics didn't appear, hopefully this time.

So I recieved these in the mail from Wayne on Thursday, and fitted them Friday morning. They are a Whiteline 350Z Heavy Duty Swaybar Ball Link.

post-61153-0-23542400-1295966220_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-13853500-1295966252_thumb.jpg

They replace this little fella;

post-61153-0-33698500-1295966279_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-82920400-1295966302_thumb.jpg

The originals were still in ok condition; the boots were starting to perish a little, but still sealed. No free play, but not tight. So probably indicative of most examples fitted to local cars.

The Ball joint is more than twice the size of the original and should be able to take a hell of a lot more load, whilst still remaining quiet & maintenance free, unlike a race style aircraft or rose jointed link. As you can see, they came with neat little nylon shields to further protect the ball joint from stones, dirt etc.

post-61153-0-73962600-1295966347_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-72279400-1295966370_thumb.jpg

I removed the rifling from the centres of the shields with a scalpel, and also cut them down to 10mm so they would fit neatly over the shaft hex, and not press against the ball joint dust shield.

post-61153-0-03174400-1295966404_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-39808100-1295966429_thumb.jpg

They came with nyloc nuts, which I elected not to use; preferring to stay with the shouldered nuts used on the original links.

This decision was twofold;

1; Using the nylocs precludes the fitting of the dust shields, as you would need to put a spanner on the flats otherwise the shaft will turn as you try to do up the nyloc.

2; The originals were fine, and a little loctite will do the trick.

Fitted to the car;

post-61153-0-01869300-1295966461_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-71530900-1295966479_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-92259400-1295966509_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-73808500-1295973703_thumb.jpg

Rolled the car up on some ramps, chocked front wheels, car in Park. Everything is accessible now.

I elected to remove the top mounts with the links attached and fit the new ones on the bench as space is limited. My top mounts were in perfect condition. The shafts are a bit longer than the originals, but do not cause any clearance issues under the car.

Once the mounts were bolted in and the sway bar was reattached, I locked up one side, ensuring the ball joints were at 90 deg angles as per the std links.

post-61153-0-42180000-1295973868_thumb.jpg

I then located the other to the swaybar and adjusted the turnbuckle until the swaybar was not preloaded in either direction NOTE *this must be done with the car on a flat, level surface* this was then locked up.

All threads have a small amount of loctite 242 stick (low strength locking compound) just to be safe.

The original links are 110mm centre to centre, and the Whiteline links are 115mm fully wound in, with around 25mm of adjustment. They have an anodised billet turnbuckle with lock nuts and are left and right hand threaded which facilitates on car adjustment. This allows the user to allow for sway bar variance,and unload the sway bar at rest. I believe the greater length will reposition the swaybar closer to it's original alignment on lowered cars anyway.

So thats it; less than an hour fitted.

I was fairly cynical going into this about the difference they would make with a Standard swaybar, but felt it was the best way to test definitively.

Bloody Hell!

At 60 km/h a sharp swerve in either direction ellicts instant response; you can feel the rear sway bar working faster than the front one, honestly feel like it's running a stiffer rear swaybar! There is obviously far less flexibility in these ball joints, as the vagueness just after turn in is completely gone, the car just dives in. I believe this will be even more pronounced with uprated swaybars.

Once fully loaded, they behave as normal; completely silent, no harshness, just like stock. But it definitely feels as if there is less roll and that the rear is reacting more quickly than the front.

I'm stunned at the difference these links made, for such a simple part, and I believe the adjustability may actually make life easier on the standard (under engineered) link top mounts, due to being able to reduce the angle of misalignment in lowered cars, and cars with adjustable bars.

I'll be approaching Wayne very soon about a group buy, and he's assured me we'll have an extremely competitive price.

I'm happy to answer any questions you may have, and obviously, stay tuned for more developments.

Cheers, Dale.

Edited by Daleo

Nice work Dale,

You said you thought that by the link being slightly longer it will position the link on a better angle to the mount. So what you are saying is that by lengthing the link it lowers the position of the end of the sway bar which moves the mounting hole on the sway bar further forward and thus in line with the mount? Sounds logical and may well reduce the stress on the mount.

Is this link you were supplied, the 350Z link?

Cheers

Andy

Nice work Dale,

You said you thought that by the link being slightly longer it will position the link on a better angle to the mount. So what you are saying is that by lengthing the link it lowers the position of the end of the sway bar which moves the mounting hole on the sway bar further forward and thus in line with the mount? Sounds logical and may well reduce the stress on the mount.

Is this link you were supplied, the 350Z link?

Cheers

Andy

That's right Andy.:thumbsup:

Yes, the link is their 350z Heavy duty link;

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=KLC141

Group Buy price will be SIGNIFICANTLY better than Whiteline's retail price; they do not discount, to protect their dealers. The dealers however, CAN discount.:whistling:

im interested in the group buy of these

any chance of a front one too?? :)

Group Buy will be happening next month.:thumbsup:

Front is a little complicated, got one off Stephen's wreck I can use as a sample? Whiteline haven't seen anything like it. I've got a couple of ideas. Thinking about a profile cut block, with one of their ball joints threaded into it. Send me a price and I'll take one off your hands.

Cheers, Dale

Edited by Daleo

i have spares you can have for the group buy, mate.

PM me some details and ill post them to you. or feel free to come past on your way to/from work. you have my address still

No worries, I'll give you a call early next week mate.

Craig its amazing as to how much those air guitarist's remind me of you lol

your one Scattered man...

Problem is is that I have heard it about three times now and it's stuck in my head!!!!!pinch.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome back, glad to hear life's wheel is turning in the right direction
    • Awesome pics Rezz, thanks for sharing them Another stop for my "need to do in Japan" list
    • Hey all, not sure how active SAU is anymore but will ask away anyways. Just wanted to get some experience on the 2008 model GTR CBA model.  I've hit that age in my life (43) where I'm like fk it time to get my dream (midlife crisis) car. Looking at importing one in and seeing if these can be reliable if the main flaws are fixed up. Plan is to keep money aside to do the following straight off the bat to future proof it: * install a stage 1 rebuilt trans with all new bits and pieces.  * install a new Bellhousing from the later model GTRs. Or potentially an upgraded stronger version like MAD or ATR. Besides the above two things and typical maintenance items anything else you'd recommend doing.   Been speaking to a few people and the engine on these are very reliable apparently. But keen on the view of the community here. Hoping to find a nice grade 4.5 with low mileage in Grey. I'd go black but swirls too easy. Look forward to your responses and feedback. Cheers    
    • Do Alan and Keith work on Skylines now? I remember buying stuff from them when I owned my Ralliart Lancer a few moons ago. Definitely genuine guys and be excellent if they dealt with the skyline platform as well.
    • Hey all, I'm Gaston from Sydney's West.  I was a member on here when I was a younger lad and owned a mint R33 GTS-T. Ended up selling it and getting married having kids (yadda yadda) we all know how the story goes. Now I'm back with the intention to get my midlife crisis (dream) car ... a R35 GTR.  You'll see me about asking questions and searching the forums. Good to be back and can't wait to get back an Import again.
×
×
  • Create New...