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Nm35 Sway Bars


Daleo
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Hi Guys,

Just to let you know we stopped making springs and shocks etc. about 3 years ago so you may have to look into some where else for those sorry.

Also we do not even make a strut brace for the 350z ,r35 gtr, v35 so chances are we will not be able to make one for the stagea at this stage.

Edited by Whiteline
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PM35 will bolt straight onto an NM35 (I have done it), but you will either need to cut and re-weld the abs at the front as they are closer together than the NM35 ones, or buy PM35 headlights, grill and front bar (as I did).

Yes, the PM35 bonnet is higher in between the creases. I think it looks much better from the driver seat (find myself looking at the "step" on the crease quite often for some reason).

so can sum one expand on this i figure the PM35 bonnet steps up in the middle whereas the NM35 steps down more

what are the main differnece in the headlights between them

is upgrading to the PM35 front end seem to be the general conseces with u guys?

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so can sum one expand on this i figure the PM35 bonnet steps up in the middle whereas the NM35 steps down more

what are the main differnece in the headlights between them

is upgrading to the PM35 front end seem to be the general conseces with u guys?

Are you trying to completely change the front end of your car, change the brakes and what else? All in a day? What for? The stock gear is adequate for the stock power output and the chassis is much stiffer than previous models.

Perhaps you should research the site some more, all the info you need is in there somewhere. You will need PM35 headlights, bonnet, grill front bar, the list goes on.

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Upgrading the front end is not something many others have done.

The difference in headlights you can see

IMG_1445.jpg

Here is a shot of a PM35 RX front bar installed with the normal NM35 headlights (the gap was around 20mm wide)

IMG_1441.jpg

You can see in this pic that the NM35 bonnet raises for each of the creases on top, but then sinks again straight away

(look at the lines of the shadow on the bonnet)

IMG_1448.jpg

The PM35 bonnet doesn't do that, it stays raised.

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Hi Guys,

Just to let you know we stopped making springs and shocks etc. about 3 years ago so you may have to look into some where else for those sorry.

Also we do not even make a strut brace for the 350z ,r35 gtr, v35 so chances are we will not be able to make one for the stagea at this stage.

Thanks Wayne, input is appreciated. Given the pricing of kits like the BC's it would probably be hard to recoup development costs; true?

Also, I was looking in the online bush catalog last night, do you guys do a factory replacement style (not universal) swaybar "D" bush in 30mm for the front, and possibly 24 mm for the rear?

A certain "other" company (you might know who I'm referring to, lol) does a rear in 24mm but not a 30mm for the front. I can get some p/n's for you tonight.

Cheers, Dale.

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If I made a suggestion I would be hijacking the hijack. - DOH! :laugh:

Don't get me wrong, I love how you guys provide heaps of information. Just as a Stag Newb, I find it really hard to trawl through pages and pages to find what I am looking for. Although I do get some interesting secondary information! :thumbsup:

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lol... agree 100%.

As a not-so-newb I find it a pain in the arse trawling through threads too... but what can ya do? Make a new thread for every question someone has?

Anyway, Sorry (again) Dale. Carry on.

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thnx for info iAMHE77

well im guna bu all the gear and do all the work in one hit so it is done and yes a little more space would be good as i am going to be doing a manual conversion , with custom plenum etc and a hole lot more

got my hands on all the bits needed from a manual axis model :nyaanyaa:

so i will be running a manual 4wd stag soon

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thnx for info iAMHE77

well im guna bu all the gear and do all the work in one hit so it is done and yes a little more space would be good as i am going to be doing a manual conversion , with custom plenum etc and a hole lot more

got my hands on all the bits needed from a manual axis model :nyaanyaa:

so i will be running a manual 4wd stag soon

Hope you know what your doing.....what ECU? How are you going to fin TBC? What GB? Output signals?

Be interested to know how you go....make sure you do a write up!

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Hope you know what your doing.....what ECU? How are you going to fin TBC? What GB? Output signals?

Be interested to know how you go....make sure you do a write up!

i will do a rite up , once i get all parts and info i wil colect all parts take pics of them

then ill get some pics of job ongoing some work will be done by me , and ill have some input from R.I.P.S and Soichi for the tuning , might just fully replace ecu with a new link so i can have full custom tune not sure yet

but like i said info gathering at the mo

but keen to start with what is available for bascic bolt on and i hate the rear floating of the stgae so want thesesway bars , keen as

i guy who is a mate of a mate here in nz Grant Fisher has a white stagea rwd turbo manual , engine dont look like much but goes hard , look on tradme he is seling it or in NZ performance mag

http://www.performancecar.co.nz/articles/2001-nissan-stagea-300rx-fresh-and-clean-158#more-32037

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.....i hate the rear floating of the stgae so want thesesway bars , keen as....

Hi champ, I don't think the sway bars are going to fix the 'floating' you describe. They practically do nothing in a straight line. You need to change spring rates and shock rates before sway bars if you are upset with handling. Suggestion is to go for the BC's or some Tein's then the sway bars based on your 'feel' and how happy you are with the cars cornering ability.

Just my 2 cents. :thumbsup:

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Hi champ, I don't think the sway bars are going to fix the 'floating' you describe. They practically do nothing in a straight line. You need to change spring rates and shock rates before sway bars if you are upset with handling. Suggestion is to go for the BC's or some Tein's then the sway bars based on your 'feel' and how happy you are with the cars cornering ability.

Just my 2 cents. :thumbsup:

when i refer to float i ment when i turn or slightly twich the wheel the back end floats to the side aka rolls to clarify

why would aftermarket sway bars be sold if they dont remedy the sway ( roll )of the car to a certain extent , i will be going sway bars link etc , also with my coilovers

A sway bar is usually a torsion spring that resists body roll motions. It is usually constructed out of a U-shaped steel bar that connects to the body at two points, and at the left and right sides of the suspension. If the left and right wheels move together, the bar rotates about its mounting points. If the wheels move relative to each other, the bar is subjected to torsion and forced to twist.

The bar resists the torsion through its stiffness. The stiffness of an anti-roll bar is based on the fourth power of its radius, the stiffness of the material, the inverse of the length of the lever arms (i.e., the shorter the lever arm, the stiffer the bar), the geometry of the mounting points, and the rigidity of the bar's mounting points. The stiffer the bar, the more force required to move the left and right wheels relative to each other. This increases the amount of force required to make the body roll.

In a turn, the sprung mass of the vehicle's body produces a lateral force at the centre of gravity (CG), proportional to lateral acceleration. Because the CG is usually not on the roll axis, the lateral force creates a moment about the roll axis that tends to roll the body. (The roll axis is a line that joins the front and rear roll centers (SAEJ670e)). The moment is called the roll couple.

Roll couple is resisted by the suspension roll stiffness, which is a function of the spring rate of the vehicle's springs and of the anti-roll bar

hence i would like to see what all suspension mods do first before i chuck coilovers in as coilovers are overated for street use , coilovers were originally created for sport , track , races to allow for adjustability to suit the track and conditions

Edited by Sidius
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Dust, we know what sway bars do, and we can all quote wikipedia when needed. :rolleyes:

'Float' or 'bob' is also a function of damping rate. You want the car to be bordering on 'critically damped'. Semantics I know. The M35 stagea is underdamped from factory (well, the shocks do have to put up with a fat 1700kg!) Fitting adjustable shocks means you can 'tune' based on the spring rate you are running and tune out the 'float' or 'bob'. Roll is a function of spring rate and roll stiffness. (hence the sway bar)

Coil overs are not over-rated for street use. In fact I would say that most people with adjustable coil overs love them mainly due to the fact you can adjust ride height 'for the look', adjust corner weights for balance, and adjust damping to suit the driving style and remove floating through bumps.

Buy coil overs first, adjust them for neutrality (perhaps slight understeer or oversteer under power? I'm still learning about AWD handling). THEN use sway bars to counter act and tune to your desired 'feel'. Don't forget, it's not a track car. :whistling:

I am actually very impressed with my Stagea in roll. I have a feeling though I might have aftermarket sway bars. The shocks are pretty soft though (I'm running Tanabe's), which is good for me as my car is for cruising and long trips, where as the Datsun 1600 SR20DET is sprung quite hard with adjustable Koni shocks to suit. I've got double adjustables (Bump and rebound) on the rear of the 1600 to adjust for drag days, so I can soften it out to get a bit more dynamic weight transfer with the softer springs I would run. Track day you put in the harder springs in the frond and rear and adjust the shocks to suit so you reach the 'bordering on critically damped'.

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Dust, we know what sway bars do, and we can all quote wikipedia when needed. :rolleyes:

'Float' or 'bob' is also a function of damping rate. You want the car to be bordering on 'critically damped'. Semantics I know. The M35 stagea is underdamped from factory (well, the shocks do have to put up with a fat 1700kg!) Fitting adjustable shocks means you can 'tune' based on the spring rate you are running and tune out the 'float' or 'bob'. Roll is a function of spring rate and roll stiffness. (hence the sway bar)

Coil overs are not over-rated for street use. In fact I would say that most people with adjustable coil overs love them mainly due to the fact you can adjust ride height 'for the look', adjust corner weights for balance, and adjust damping to suit the driving style and remove floating through bumps.

Buy coil overs first, adjust them for neutrality (perhaps slight understeer or oversteer under power? I'm still learning about AWD handling). THEN use sway bars to counter act and tune to your desired 'feel'. Don't forget, it's not a track car. :whistling:

I am actually very impressed with my Stagea in roll. I have a feeling though I might have aftermarket sway bars. The shocks are pretty soft though (I'm running Tanabe's), which is good for me as my car is for cruising and long trips, where as the Datsun 1600 SR20DET is sprung quite hard with adjustable Koni shocks to suit. I've got double adjustables (Bump and rebound) on the rear of the 1600 to adjust for drag days, so I can soften it out to get a bit more dynamic weight transfer with the softer springs I would run. Track day you put in the harder springs in the frond and rear and adjust the shocks to suit so you reach the 'bordering on critically damped'.

wiki is awsome :worship:

dont worry i am getting the bc golds i just want to see how the bars do stand alone

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Dust, we know what sway bars do, and we can all quote wikipedia when needed. :rolleyes:

'Float' or 'bob' is also a function of damping rate. You want the car to be bordering on 'critically damped'. Semantics I know. The M35 stagea is underdamped from factory (well, the shocks do have to put up with a fat 1700kg!) Fitting adjustable shocks means you can 'tune' based on the spring rate you are running and tune out the 'float' or 'bob'. Roll is a function of spring rate and roll stiffness. (hence the sway bar)

Coil overs are not over-rated for street use. In fact I would say that most people with adjustable coil overs love them mainly due to the fact you can adjust ride height 'for the look', adjust corner weights for balance, and adjust damping to suit the driving style and remove floating through bumps.

Buy coil overs first, adjust them for neutrality (perhaps slight understeer or oversteer under power? I'm still learning about AWD handling). THEN use sway bars to counter act and tune to your desired 'feel'. Don't forget, it's not a track car. :whistling:

I am actually very impressed with my Stagea in roll. I have a feeling though I might have aftermarket sway bars. The shocks are pretty soft though (I'm running Tanabe's), which is good for me as my car is for cruising and long trips, where as the Datsun 1600 SR20DET is sprung quite hard with adjustable Koni shocks to suit. I've got double adjustables (Bump and rebound) on the rear of the 1600 to adjust for drag days, so I can soften it out to get a bit more dynamic weight transfer with the softer springs I would run. Track day you put in the harder springs in the frond and rear and adjust the shocks to suit so you reach the 'bordering on critically damped'.

+1 listen to the man.

While taking nothing away from the sway bay's as I know I am going to be needing them for my use of the car I am finding that getting the spring and shock rates right first for me works......for instance at the moment the rear of my car is extremely stiff therefore promoting oversteer under power and after the apex....only after I get this thing onto the track will I know wether I really need a sway bar on the back with my setting's!....I do know for a fact that I will be needing a sway on the front as I already have enough bite with the shit bar that is standard with these tank's!

As said above the floating or bouncing in the rear can be fixed with springs and shock's in short!....you just need to find your perfect balance with power/adhesion and preferred style of driving. e.g. I like a bit of understeer going into a non aggressive oversteer after the apex!...some people like to step it out way before the apex which is fine if your not after top end!

P.S. Don't suggest wiki cut and paste.....you will get flamed unless using it as a quote or reference or not passing it off as something you may have written.....first search I did on you post was a cut and paste into google....BAM wiki came up! Your not dealing with moron's in this section from the C34 or M35 owner.....we all know our shit!....sorry we all need to know our shit!

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wasnt tryna pass it off as sumthn i said at all just was being lasy and copyied pasted , not tryna get on any ones bad side ust want to get the best option s for the stagea

and will hunt until i do

i am not one to jump in and put a missive turbo on my car with out thinking of all the other importnat things

any way , ye ill be going bc Golds with the whitline gear if it becomes available or dolphin sway bars

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