Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-t Brake Calipers


Cimp
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm doing an engineering research project on looking into the heat dispersion in R33 GTS-T brake calipers using thermal imaging. This will involve me doing testing on the brake calipers in a lab then comparing them against the brake calipers in my R33 GTS-T.

To do this though, I'm needing to get standard 4 pot and 2 pot front and rear brake calipers. Does anybody have these for an R33 GTS-T that they are willing to let me borrow for the next few months? I only need one of each and won't damage them in testing. I'm also willing to pay to be able to borrow them.

I live in Canberra, so am more than happy to cover the cost of postage and handling.

This will save me having to spend a huge amount of money, so if anybody could help me out, I would be deeply thankful.

Thanks,

MJ.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I could probably pull the front calipers off my race car, its not going anywhere for a while, I live in canberra as well.

Edit - But I would want some sort of deposit to ensure the safe return of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry about that mate,

Parting out the car, so been a bit busy, Im happy for you to grab a caliper or 2.

Did you want to pick them up or me to send them out?

Let me know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, excellent! :rolleyes:

I'm happy to come by and pick them up. Do you have a rear caliper that I can also borrow? All i need is 1 front and 1 rear caliper. How much would you like as a security deposit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah I have a rear caliper as well, If you come after the weekend Ill have them off.

Deposit - Well the going rate for a pair of front calipers is 270 so I guess half of that.

Cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
×
×
  • Create New...