Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have an R33 GTS-t with the following work done. 3inch turbo back exhaust, K&N pod, r34 GT-T cooler.

I have done the following service items

- timing belt, tensioners, seals

- new plugs bcpres-11 (gapped to 0.9)

- cleaned AFM (several times)

- cleaned all induction piping

- new o2 sensor

- cleaned AAC valve

- oils etc

Now the car usually runs really well

Recently it has developed what can only be described as R&R mode however the car is on stock boost (as confirmed by an aftermarket boost gauge) Interestingly the car also maintains 7psi at full throttle even though everyone isists it should spike higher with these mods...

I assumed I had an over sensitive ECU and it was hitting R&R due increased airflow.

That was until someone suggested it might be sensing detonation and going into a conservative fuel map. This scared me!

So I will check that the knock sensors are connected (a problem that I read during a serch that caused this)

Just on the odd occassion the car will start fine (first start in the morning) then stall, and yes I gave it time to prime. The car will then start normally.

What would cause this? Fuel Pump? Dead AFM? Would it be anything that would cause my strange R&R at standard boost problem?

Now if it is fuel pumps can someone suggest the part number for the common recommended pumps (bosch, walbro, tomei etc) their part numbers for the ones that bolt in, no mods required. Looking for capacity to run about 10-12 psi tuned with the above mods. Also would appreciate any recommended places in melb for getting these at a good price

Thanks!

Edited by TUF250
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332652-stalling-after-start-issue-issue/
Share on other sites

Heres the tomei fuel pump for a r33 gtst on nengun. http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-niss...yline-r33-gts-t I bought one after i ditched my walbro, when i thought it may of been causing problems, they are pretty easy to install but a bit of overkill for what you want. A bosch 040 is easy enough to install and roughly about half the price.

What boost gauge are you using?? mine was getting a couple extra psi after i installed a full exhaust and was getting a little extra at night. Im not sure if it went into R&R if it would cause less boost?? Unless it was stupidly rich.

Jarrod

it just feels flat, no missfire no pop crackles, nothing. Its smooth as silk. However its down on power. When I reset the ecu the other day it went back to its normal self and was gre4at but by the following night it was 'flat' again. So just chasing the fault.

I just have a calibre digital boost gauge. shows 5 to 4500rpm then 7 so seems accurate, the car just isnt spiking. Not sure if the car stays in R&R mode once it happens or if it resets after you shut the car off?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
  • Create New...