Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have used bendix before and have sworn never to go back to those pads ever again in my life on any car.....the amount of brake dust it creates is f**king insane.....and the braking performance claimed isnt really there.....well for me it wasnt anyway......QFM A1RM's for street and track so far are awesome......even Lucas are good value

Project Mu have just come out with a new pad called the "Club Racer"

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/

It sits firmly in between their "Type HC+" and the very famous "H16 03" pads (pretty much an industry standard in pro motorsport events)

The HC+ is probably the most aggressive pad you would want to run on the street but still remains a true street/track pad, whereas the "Club Racer" pad is not as effective on a street car (still OK though) but a killa pad on the track.

As far as the "H16 03" pads go, ask anyone involved in pro motorsport what they think about this puppy.

I ran EBC & Project Mu pads in the R and fell in love with the latter so I'll be going down this road again with the EVO.

are they harsh on rotors Luke?

cause I'm leaning towards a high coefficient pad for track days and the stock Brembo pads for daily..........can't really see how a dual purpose pad will perform at its best in both scenarios (it'll be compromised) hence why I'm leaning towards different pads for each situation rather than a one pad does all deal.

I think that a street/track pad may eventually be too harsh on rotors for daily use and not enough bite on a track once it gets hot....does the Ferodo 2500 fall into this category Luke?

I'm thinking of testing out the new project mu's later on. They are called something else over it japan so I assume there's a big mark up on the Aussie ones. I'll find out prices for those who are keen :yes:

yeah they only get better the hotter they get, depending on which pad you got Kye.

I think the Type HC+ are over $500 for front & rears, the Club Racer pads are around $700 and the H16 03's are around $1000 :(:yes:

yeah let me know what price you can source the Project Mu "Club Racer" pads for a 2010 EVO X MR with Brembo calipers please Luke. :)

Well I just got Dale's Brother Matt from "Growly Custom Machining" to slot my rotors and I'm a very happy boy.

Thought this would be an appropriate thread rather than starting another one.

Matt said that he would give SAU folk 20% discount = $100 for a set (machined front & back)

He has various designs that he can throw on the CNC machine so give him a call.

Too many peeps throw a bucket load of cash under their bonnett then get to Malalla and do shit times cause they can't stop...I reckon $100 was money well spent.

So what are you waiting for??

http://www.growly.com.au/services.html

052.jpg

Ryan, you hit the nail right on the head....couldn't agree more.

If the Club Racer pad hadn't been available (track only), the Type HC+ was def the one I would've used.......and it's a pad that you can drive home with and leave it in there.

Project Mu win in my books but everyone has their faves I suppose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
×
×
  • Create New...