Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im a noob i know, but i was wondering if anybody knows how much thrashing this gearbox can take whilst in triptronic. Im a weary of using it to much because i dont want to break anything, since transmission repairs are just nasty,, and im always paranoid something will happen to it, everybody is always warning me its not a manual so dont treat it like one, are they right or can a NA trip take the pressure of Red line gear shifting, i want to track it in 6 months you see.

I don't drive my car hard much. But yes it can handle shifting at the redline - eg. when doing an overtaking manuver.

For track/circuit stuff a manual is a better bet - however if you want to use an auto (I imagine your car is your daily too?) - I'd recommend at a minimum getting a trans cooler and ensuring you are running Castrol Transmax Z

Maybe you will have to get better transmission bands and some entry level shift kit.

I see, i guess i would need to play with the transmission a bit if i want to keep up with the Evo's on the track ( highly doubt it though). Its just something my unlce and his friend have phsyced me up for, one owns a Series 4 RX7 i think it is, and my uncle a 350 hp falcon, some other guys i know that will be going have 180sx and Cortina's. So yeah if i can get my car performing well in about 6 months it should be a fun day, its 1999 2 door, its a stocker though, which is cool i can mod it to my tastes.

Woulda thought the autos would be more durable than manuals (reason why some top level Fords/Holdens have auto, because too much torque, so i'm told anyways) due to the torque being distributed better in auto boxes without the clutch and stick. Never heard of auto boxes breaking unless you were playing with the auto selector a lot.

Woulda thought the autos would be more durable than manuals (reason why some top level Fords/Holdens have auto, because too much torque, so i'm told anyways) due to the torque being distributed better in auto boxes without the clutch and stick. Never heard of auto boxes breaking unless you were playing with the auto selector a lot.

This is mainly true for drag racing....

Circuit and drift - manual is the way to go

Not to say to totally rule out auto for circuit (for the sake of going out there and having a good time) - however supprting mods for reliability is a must.

  • 1 month later...
This is mainly true for drag racing....

Circuit and drift - manual is the way to go

Not to say to totally rule out auto for circuit (for the sake of going out there and having a good time) - however supprting mods for reliability is a must.

manual is defs he way to go for track!! i took my 34 on track at winton with the auto trans using triptronic.. they are really slow to change back down when uve got ur revs up. it took about 3 secs (no exageration) to downhift from 3rd to 2nd gear at a coulple of turns and i tell u what its scary when it does that!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...