Jump to content
SAU Community

How Storng Is The R34 Triptronic Gear Box.

starwarz

By starwarz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
Posted

Im a noob i know, but i was wondering if anybody knows how much thrashing this gearbox can take whilst in triptronic. Im a weary of using it to much because i dont want to break anything, since transmission repairs are just nasty,, and im always paranoid something will happen to it, everybody is always warning me its not a manual so dont treat it like one, are they right or can a NA trip take the pressure of Red line gear shifting, i want to track it in 6 months you see.

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

I don't drive my car hard much. But yes it can handle shifting at the redline - eg. when doing an overtaking manuver.

For track/circuit stuff a manual is a better bet - however if you want to use an auto (I imagine your car is your daily too?) - I'd recommend at a minimum getting a trans cooler and ensuring you are running Castrol Transmax Z

Maybe you will have to get better transmission bands and some entry level shift kit.

starwarz Proficient

starwarz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I see, i guess i would need to play with the transmission a bit if i want to keep up with the Evo's on the track ( highly doubt it though). Its just something my unlce and his friend have phsyced me up for, one owns a Series 4 RX7 i think it is, and my uncle a 350 hp falcon, some other guys i know that will be going have 180sx and Cortina's. So yeah if i can get my car performing well in about 6 months it should be a fun day, its 1999 2 door, its a stocker though, which is cool i can mod it to my tastes.

TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
Posted

Woulda thought the autos would be more durable than manuals (reason why some top level Fords/Holdens have auto, because too much torque, so i'm told anyways) due to the torque being distributed better in auto boxes without the clutch and stick. Never heard of auto boxes breaking unless you were playing with the auto selector a lot.

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted
Woulda thought the autos would be more durable than manuals (reason why some top level Fords/Holdens have auto, because too much torque, so i'm told anyways) due to the torque being distributed better in auto boxes without the clutch and stick. Never heard of auto boxes breaking unless you were playing with the auto selector a lot.

This is mainly true for drag racing....

Circuit and drift - manual is the way to go

Not to say to totally rule out auto for circuit (for the sake of going out there and having a good time) - however supprting mods for reliability is a must.

  • 1 month later...
GTXR34 Experienced

GTXR34

Posted
Posted
This is mainly true for drag racing....

Circuit and drift - manual is the way to go

Not to say to totally rule out auto for circuit (for the sake of going out there and having a good time) - however supprting mods for reliability is a must.

manual is defs he way to go for track!! i took my 34 on track at winton with the auto trans using triptronic.. they are really slow to change back down when uve got ur revs up. it took about 3 secs (no exageration) to downhift from 3rd to 2nd gear at a coulple of turns and i tell u what its scary when it does that!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...