Jump to content
SAU Community

Biggest Power Out Of Factory Position Turbo Kit For 33 Gtr

jakez88

By jakez88,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jakez88 Veteran

jakez88

Posted
Posted

hey guys a friend of mine is wanting some help on some info on turbo kits for his r33 gtr. he wants the most power he can get out of using the factory twin turbo positions using a recommended turbo kit. we have heard about the hks gt-rs kit which is rated at 700hp but was wondering if there was anything that was rated higher then that.

his engine went bang a month ago and is now in the process of building a n1 block with the OS Giken RB30 or RB315 kit with supporting mods. any other recommendations would be awesome in terms of modifications in handling the power.

thanks!

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I call bs.

Regardless, GTRS kit is rated 700hp? Wrong, it's 800hp

Biggest factory bolt on turbos is 920hp from dash 10 garretts but the dump pipes may need to be fabbed up

jakez88 Veteran

jakez88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

if he really wanted to he could just go a t88 and be done with it but he is after a stealth looking engine bay.

and its not about "fitting" a couple of turbos. its more about which turbos will actually make the power exceeding 700hp if you read the description in my first post.

and yes he does have 50k+ waiting to be dropped on a new drive line (sequential box, front and rear diffs etc), fuel system, engine, the lot.

jakez88 Veteran

jakez88

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
I call bs.

Regardless, GTRS kit is rated 700hp? Wrong, it's 800hp

Biggest factory bolt on turbos is 920hp from dash 10 garretts but the dump pipes may need to be fabbed up

i think if anything wasn't the gt2871r-10 the same as a hks gt-rs anyway? pretty sure thats what he was looking at. he might have to settle with those.

Edited by jakez88
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I'm surprised that anyone spending that sort of money doesn't ring around the turbo places and see what they have to offer. Still, if you look at the garrett site you will see the dash 10 options. Choose from 800hp to 920hp. Not GTRS equals, they're bigger.

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted

i guarantee you could get 1000+hp at the fly on E85 with over 3L's using low-mount turbs if you were prepared to do enough exhaust system modificaction

it's not like you couldn't make the turbos fit

R32 Driver Mentor

R32 Driver

Posted
Posted
I call bs.

Regardless, GTRS kit is rated 700hp? Wrong, it's 800hp

Biggest factory bolt on turbos is 920hp from dash 10 garretts but the dump pipes may need to be fabbed up

Is the 920hp pair with the .64 rear housings? or bigger?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...