Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

all this reading on 2 way diffs has got me interested.  so how noisy are these things compared to stock??  like would i be able to hear it in the cabin over an exhaust or outside if i stand on the streets??

They are only noisey when taking slow corners.

So taking off from the lights and doing a 90 degree left turn you'll be able to hear it. And so will the people standing close to the car. But if you go around the corner with netrual throttle (not accelerating and no deccelerating) there's no noise as the diff only locks up when accelerating or deccelrating.

Reverse parking can be a little noisey too, backing out of drive ways etc..

I also find that when the oil in the diff is cold (first thing in the morning) it's like a stock LSD. But once the oil is warm/hot it does it's thing :P

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-672188
Share on other sites

Late 60's F1 cars were set up with differing ramp angles on accelerate and trail for exactly that kind of handling.

And I think this is the difference between a 2 way and a 1.5 way. Eg. 1.5 way locks up faster in acceleration, and locks up slower in deacceleration. While a 2 way locks up the same either way.

Or should I say - the difference between the 2 and 1.5 ways is that the 1.5 ways don't lock up as fast in deaccelerating....

Anyone know for sure??

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-672543
Share on other sites

thanks Jay95r33.....im sure i can live with that if it does its job in the end:D might have to find someone with one and go for a ride.

how much do these normally fetch for?? and is there any particular brand that stands out from others?? the hicas is totally eliminated too rite?? so i can scrap gettin the hicas removal bar and put that money into a 2 way diff rite??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-672615
Share on other sites

thanks Jay95r33.....im sure i can live with that if it does its job in the end:D  might have to find someone with one and go for a ride.  

how much do these normally fetch for?? and is there any particular brand that stands out from others??  the hicas is totally eliminated too rite?? so i can scrap gettin the hicas removal bar and put that money into a 2 way diff rite??

That's cool,

By the looks of it, secondhand ones go for around $500. Not sure what the differeces are between brands, but maybe stick with a big brand (Cusco, Nismo, ATS etc..) if your unsure.

Another thing is that your rear tyres will wear a little quicker than normal. This is due to the skipping, plus the fact that they are so fun to drift with :worship:

The HICAS is totally seperate to the diff, so you will still need the HICAS lock bar if you want to disable it.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-672681
Share on other sites

$500 is a very, very good price for a decent second hand 2 way diff.  Realistically expect to pay 800-1000 for a good one.  

I have been looking for one for a while, cheapest (until now) I have seen is $850, dearest around 2K.

Did I mention I just picked up a 1 way for $350:D

hehe told you they want to get rid of them :worship:

1 way is just lock up under acceleration, no effect under braking.

I haven't tried a 1.5 or 2 way to compare, but the traction and predictability out of turns with the 1 way is *amazing*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-672854
Share on other sites

Jay, yep basically. If you could imagine the 'ways' referr to the locking characteristics of the diff, 1 locks one way, ie accelleration, 1.5 locks on accel, half locks on decel, 2 ways locks two ways accel and decel.

skids, really, 1 way is fine, very predictable when accelerating, but wont lock when you brake, so if for some reason you need to brake into a corner, less likely to kick the back out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-673463
Share on other sites

Just a note on the HICAS lock bar. I'm building one now and the threads are a 16mm x 1.0 thread pitch. Entirely uncommon in Oz but you can get a bottoming tap for a bargain $65......ouch. Oh well it is cheaper than the off the shelf items.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-673502
Share on other sites

i would recomend a 2way for the street, depending on how you drive.

I have a 2way, and the thing i love most is that when the tail is out, and i get nervous and back off too suddenly or early, the back end sits firmly planted, with no snapping back, spinning round, or fishtailing. Its saved my arse a few times.

id only see a one way good for launches and power oversteer for the experienced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-674226
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update, diff arrived, and surprise surprise its a 2 way nismo:D:D:D so I reckon I got close to the bargian of the century - absolutely stoked.

I didnt realise quite how bad the stock diff is until I fitted this thing. especially noticeable when coming onto boost and taking off at the lights where I used to get the rears (or one rear) chirping all the time. Now I can just feed on the throttle as I move off and she just launches - heaps better, feels alot quicker.

The transition to oversteer is so much better too, no longer just snaps sideways, just gradually moves out and then comes back nicely (unless you just go nuts with the loud pedal).

If I knew how bad the stock diff really was, I would have upgraded along time ago.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33288-lsds/page/2/#findComment-687883
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...