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  • 1 month later...

I'm not sure draining your catch cans oil back into the engine straight on top of your cams is a good idea,,,rarely have I ever seen clean oil come out of them. They usually have oil,,,water and crud.

Cheers

Neil.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

you want give the engine as much chance 2 keep the oil in it. so by using gravity will help. good idea. just remember you should have a 1 way value between your can and your turbo 2 prevent turbo sucking the oil Out of the can.

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  • 2 months later...

bad setup. imo.

self draining should have an oil/air seperator that only allows heavy oil to pass back in to the SUMP not the head...

The breather should always be higher than the drain. your drain is higher. Plus your drain goes straight to the intake and the way it's designed pure oil could go that way. not just gasses.

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  • 2 weeks later...

you want give the engine as much chance 2 keep the oil in it. so by using gravity will help. good idea. just remember you should have a 1 way value between your can and your turbo 2 prevent turbo sucking the oil Out of the can.

ah the purpose of a catch can is to "catch" and then hold oil, moisture and whatever is pushed out of the rocker covers in crankcase ventilation it has to either vent to atmosphere or to the intake constantly so you dont get a rise in crankcase pressure and blow your turbo or cam cover seals, or any other seals for that matter... a one way valve in the hose to the intake pipe pressurise the crank case as you are sealing the motor once the valve is sucked closed by the vacume in the intake pipe.. is not pvc...pcv is under pressure not vacume so it needs to have one way valve or motor will pressurise even more...

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  • 7 months later...

Fabrication looks OK the physics side may need some work, don't worry about the idiots and their ha ha posts, the only thing they work on is their own dicks.

Search for some more engine bay photos and threads on oil control.

Keep it up.

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  • 5 months later...

I used one of these cans on my gtr, the problem that ur friends on here have pointed out is that it can still get oil back into the inlet. I ran this as an overflow tank, and unless ur tank is getting full after every drive to the shops and back it should be fine, they work very well. I ended up running this and then to a vented can to the side, then back to the inlet, if u are running it back to ur inlet be sure to put ur return on a 45degree angle to create a negative pressure in the pipe. anything more and it will not be as effective.

Good job on the welding any way, I hope u made it with baffles.

GL

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  • 4 months later...

Cool air and some extra surface area inside will help condense more of the crud.

Put it near the front, and have baffles inside.

I wouldnt want the crud in mine getting back into the motor.

Like Paul said,

Run the breather system as usual with the pcv and have the can in the line that goes to the air intake before the turbo.

So all you are doing is condensing the crappy oil vapour and stopping most of it from going into the intake and being burned.

I read somewhere this vapour effectively lowers your octane level. Bad if you run high boost n stuff.

post-89755-0-22543300-1343903225_thumb.png

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just out of interest why have you plumbed back into the intake facing away from the turbo? i always though the intention was to have it facing towards to the turbo similar to how you should plumb a bov return. i know i might not be correct, but i think it may cause pressure issues. maybe if someone like scotty see's this he might know more, but he has other threads about intake pipe plumbing, seeing as how he makes them.

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if you have a properly baffled catch can then there shouldnt be much going into the intake pipe. mine points towards the turbo (using standard rubber intake pipe) and i havent seen any oil/dirt etc in the pipe. the catch can has a little bit of oil in the bottom, and due to the proper mesh baffles id like to think theres not much oil vapour making it to turbo.

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