Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-53916-1281758531_thumb.jpgpost-53916-1281758462_thumb.jpg[attachmen

t=300308:14082010032.jpg]post-53916-1281758554_thumb.jpg

My story starts when i pulled my diff out to shim it, but i found my pinion gear is shagged. So im looking for another diff. My car is a r32 with a gts4 rear subframe its got gtr 6bolt axles etc..

What i would like to know if i buy an r32 gtr diff can i just change the drive shaft yoke from the gtr/gts4 yoke to just the normal 4 bolt??? Is the posible?

I get the feeling my diff is a viscous gts4 it is a 4.1 ratio and the owner before me changed the input flange to the 4bolt one, but never got the preload and backlash right so its destoryed itself?

any help would be mint

post-53916-1281758501_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/
Share on other sites

got any pics of the diff centre? If it is 4.1 ratio it is gtr not gts4 (they are 4.4 ratio).

i guess they just got the backlash wrong when changing the cente to do that sort of damage. but a gtr pinion should not cost too much?

how many teeth on the pinion? you can always confirm the ratio by turning the tailshaft and counting the halfshaft turns

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/#findComment-5399099
Share on other sites

got any pics of the diff centre? If it is 4.1 ratio it is gtr not gts4 (they are 4.4 ratio).

i guess they just got the backlash wrong when changing the cente to do that sort of damage. but a gtr pinion should not cost too much?

how many teeth on the pinion? you can always confirm the ratio by turning the tailshaft and counting the halfshaft turns

post-53916-1281817903_thumb.jpg

The diff centre is a viscous im pretty sure, the pinion has 12 and the crown has 49 teeth.

yea i would like to just find a gear set and put my diff back together but not many people sell them seperate.

so what i was thinking ill just buy a gtr diff and change the input flange to the normal 4bolt flange like the one in my pictures, but is this possible??

If i went with the gtr diff id get rid of the viscous...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/#findComment-5399290
Share on other sites

That ratio is from a Stagea (= 4.083:1). GT-R is 9 (pinion) and 37 (crown wheel).

Get a replacement diff (GT-R, GTSt, Stagea, doesn't really matter), and swap the crown wheel onto your existing centre, and the pinion into your existing housing. That way, input and output bits will still match up. If you get a differential specialist to do it, they can set up the backlash correctly at the same time.

BTW, the ratio is generally stamped somewhere on the crown wheel ("teeth on c/w" : "teeth on pinion") - saves a heap of tooth counting!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/#findComment-5399322
Share on other sites

That ratio is from a Stagea (= 4.083:1). GT-R is 9 (pinion) and 37 (crown wheel).

Get a replacement diff (GT-R, GTSt, Stagea, doesn't really matter), and swap the crown wheel onto your existing centre, and the pinion into your existing housing. That way, input and output bits will still match up. If you get a differential specialist to do it, they can set up the backlash correctly at the same time.

BTW, the ratio is generally stamped somewhere on the crown wheel ("teeth on c/w" : "teeth on pinion") - saves a heap of tooth counting!

Thanks for the info haha i would have never guessed that!!!

The main thing i want to find out is if i get a r32 gtr mech diff can the input flange be swaped with the normal gtst 4 bolt flange? Because if it can it should be a easy bolt in and im better off with the mech diff then the viscous

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/#findComment-5399348
Share on other sites

no its easier than that. As blind_elk said, just swap the internals of a diff (gtr if you want the mech centre) into your existing housing. that way you know everything bolts up fine.

so all you need is a 2nd hand gtr diff and someone who can assemble it properly.

BTW blind_elk...do you have the numbers for gtst and gts4 as well. this thread is a valuable reference now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/#findComment-5399350
Share on other sites

Duncan, I think the problem luxing is having is whether or not the output shafts will fit into the appropriate location in the diff centre, ie is the shaft of a GTSt the right diameter, length and spline configuration to mesh with the diff centre. And I don't know that, which is why I suggested to just swap the gears themselves. (If I had done the whole assembly swap with my Stagea diff into the R32, I probably would have lost any LSD function, because it seemed that the Stagea had an open rear diff)

BTW blind_elk...do you have the numbers for gtst and gts4 as well. this thread is a valuable reference now
GTS4 is 35:8 = 4.375.

GTSt is 4.363? That would make it 48:11.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/#findComment-5399404
Share on other sites

post-53916-1281834584_thumb.jpg

All i want to know if i can change the input flanges/yokes. I want to take the 4wd input flange off the gtr diff and just bolt on my gtst input flange(normal 4 bolt)

Will it work are the splines the same? Will the spacing change?

the picture is the gtr input flange

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332915-r32-diff-help/#findComment-5399440
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...