Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, i was just wondering, is there a standard set of ratios for the 6 speed holinger sequential for the gtr?

what seems to be the commonly chosen ones? 6th being overdrive.

cheers

also, does anyone know what the mainshaft to countershaft distance is on the seq holinger?

ie. the os88 is 88mm....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi all, i was just wondering, is there a standard set of ratios for the 6 speed holinger sequential for the gtr?

what seems to be the commonly chosen ones? 6th being overdrive.

cheers

also, does anyone know what the mainshaft to countershaft distance is on the seq holinger?

ie. the os88 is 88mm....

There are no set ratios, leagh at Hollinger will send you a chart to choose from, Tomei has chisen two different otions.

Imput shaft can be standard 24 spline but most people choose the chevy 26 spline unit as this was a weak point of the original nissan gearbox.

Main shaft to counter shaft distance, call Hollinger.

If you buy one be prepared to put regular gearsets in it, they do wear out and are costly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i realise that.

i just thought there would of been a common set of ratios that people choose for the gtr... or is every holinger floating around got differant ratios..

anyone know what ratios were used in the group a r32?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Thread revival...

Can a V8 Supercar Holinger be adapted to accept the GTR transfer case? (i.e. R32/33 or R34 transfer case?) or is there a specific model of Holinger intended for the GTR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pretty sure the GTR hollingers are an HS6 so yeah with the right bellhousing and adapter for the transfer case it should be fine. as long as what you're buying from a V8 is an HS6 too. call hollinger and I'm sure they can tell you. but by the time you buy the right hollinger/RB bellhousing, and the transfer case fitting it might not be worth it. also need to take into account the ratios it comes with might not be suitable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

actually looks like they are not an HS6 after all. and apparently V8SC don't use HS6 now either. it's still possible you could buy one and then buy the bellhousing for the front and the transfer case mount/adapter for the rear but again by the time you do all that just buy the right GTR box?

have a look at the holinger site. it's been updated recently I was told. if you look at the centre of the old GTR boxes (which is the gearbox with the front being just bellhousing and the rear is transfer adapter) it does look a bit like an HS6 but better to check before doing anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

don't worry I've had that same thought before too.

"hmm, plenty of 6spd sequential hollingers getting around in varous V8SC.... hmmm now how do I put that into my GTR???" lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT. I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors? How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis? Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.
    • Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.
    • Cheers lad, when I head over there I'll give it a shot.
    • Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.
    • Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.
×
×
  • Create New...