Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im new to this site. I was jus wondering how much my r31 gts skyline is worth? Its a 88 model aussie 4door silhoette GTS skyline says its number 64 out of how ever many(ive got told 200)? got all plates under the hood n got the SVD badge on the dash sayn number 64. However it doesnt hav rb30 in it nemore as its got a n/a 25(apparently done by nissan). 5 speed manual with reco'd diff and new pedders racing suspension. Im curious bout the suspension cuz it has the main outside coil then a inner coil then strut jus wondering if its expensive aswell? Im willing to sell as is or im putn my turbo 30 motor and box in it n putn it on road!

Wud be great to hear some ideas n prices on this??? thanks

post-76074-1281915985_thumb.jpg

post-76074-1281916036_thumb.jpg

post-76074-1281916084_thumb.jpg

post-76074-1281916130_thumb.jpg

post-76074-1281916183_thumb.jpg

post-76074-1281916244_thumb.jpg

post-76074-1281916309_thumb.jpg

post-76074-1281916357_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333085-how-much-is-my-gts-skyline-worth/
Share on other sites

Yeah i no it aint worth anything with 25 thats why im selln the motor n putn turbo 30 back in unless i can find a gts motor for it. I got it with the 25 n im tryn to get it bak as close to original as possible unless i get the rite offer for it as is!!!!

Why sell the N/A 25 to put a turbo RB30 in? There was no RB30ET nissan's produced either. It would be easiest(and closest to original) to get a cam regrind to GTS specs and an aftermarket exhaust........

Unless you can find the original engine & ECU, your car is worth SFA.

As someone said, why toss a perfectly good Nissan RB25DE to put in an GMH derivative RB30ET. And there is no way your car came fitted with the RB25DE ex factory.

Why don't you just turbo the RB25DE??

Where did you get this vehicle? As I bought an RB30E GTSI engine off a guy in Narrelan, that was doing this same conversion to his GTSI some years ago when I was going to do a monster RB30DET conversion into an MR30 Ti sedatch.

D

Yeah i was thinkn it aint worth nothing thats y i posted on hear n asked! I never said it came factory with a 25 it jus got told it got converted by nissan. Im putn 30 bak in because i got a rb30DET n turbo box for it. Im over turbsin n/a's as i got another aussie 31 i drive n ive been threw 3 motors in the last 6 months due to crackd heads n head gaskets(from not putn thicker gasket on as i know). But yeah if its best for me to keep 25 i cud do so but im jus thinkn i cud wind more boost into the 30DET n use bigger turbo? Im open to suggestions thats y i posted on hear.

you want to go 'slidin' in a gts? seriously go get S13 or a VN or whatever sub-5K smoke machine you wantto terrorisethe streets in.

ning nong.... just get it back to factory spec and sell it in the conditon it deserves.

Its not that hard if you think about it.

Anyone wanna buy it for 4k. Its got adjustable racing suspension n good tread perfect motor n box. Only thing body needs is one drivers side door strip n wing! No dints n only 2 50cent peice rust spots on whole car. Im willing to let it go!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Donut tried them out, they were fine as long as the bolt or nut wasn’t very tight 
    • It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here. 
    • Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time. 
    • anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA   I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes'  but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?
    • I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.
×
×
  • Create New...