Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had my R33 for two weeks now and have come across a problem. Over the last 4 or 5 days it has become harder to start. Each time more so than the last. When it does start, it idles smoothly with no other hiccups throughout the rev range. I am the first owner of the car in Oz and I am wondering if the plugs are still for jap fuel (100 octane) and possibly fouled. Could it also be the AAC control valve or the bi-metalic valve?

One other thing I noticed. The car will idle roughly (sounds like three cylinders) but as soon as I touch the accelerator it idles nice and smooth.

Any suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33317-rough-start-up/
Share on other sites

hard to know exactly what u mean, when mines cold and i start it i notice its hesitates afew times to bring the revs on cold start idle to about 1200ish rpm if i give the throttle a touch to help it there then its fine, to me its not an issue coz i have checked everything, and its only for 1 second on cold start up then there is no drama. Just check the spark plugs if ur in doubt!!! Its not hard to do champ!! Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33317-rough-start-up/#findComment-668200
Share on other sites

i agree with SWEETr33 on this one

i have the 32 GTST and it hesitates a little when cold in the morning but other than those like 10secs its fine and then idles perfect.........i have noticed however my car has been of the road for 5 1/2 months now and i started it the other day and was a little worse mainly i think because of the lack of use

im pretty sure just get a set of new sparks and you should be OK

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33317-rough-start-up/#findComment-668232
Share on other sites

frosty it could be plugs or more than likely just the fuel has gone a little stale from sitting in the lines for those 5 months. Should be an issue when u start it up again. I remember when i went to test drive a r33 that just got off the transport truck, hadnt been started for like 8 months and its ran on 5 cyl's for about the for minute till the stale fuel cleared and it got decent fuel into it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33317-rough-start-up/#findComment-668266
Share on other sites

Umm, has the battery got some distilled water in it? Harder starts are usually the sign of a battery thats struggling to cope. Especially if its come on all of a sudden.

My 32 is hard to start from cold, but its been like that ever since i got it, still no idea what causes it.

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33317-rough-start-up/#findComment-668401
Share on other sites

By "rough startup" do you mean it struggles to crank over or just cranks over for a long time? If the latter, it's a very common problem on many 'lines. The way I get around it is if it doesn't kick over within 2 seconds, I let go of the key, wait 1-2 more seconds, then crank it over again, and it will start within 2-3 kicks. If I keep cranking it over and it goes beyond 2 seconds, it will not start for another 4-5 seconds or so.

Recently I have adjusted the cranking ignition injector duty cycle times on my PowerFC which has pretty much fixed this problem. If you're stuck with a stock ECU then you can't fix it this way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33317-rough-start-up/#findComment-669255
Share on other sites

By "rough startup" do you mean it struggles to crank over or just cranks over for a long time? If the latter, it's a very common problem on many 'lines. The way I get around it is if it doesn't kick over within 2 seconds, I let go of the key, wait 1-2 more seconds, then crank it over again, and it will start within 2-3 kicks. If I keep cranking it over and it goes beyond 2 seconds, it will not start for another 4-5 seconds or so.

The car starts after 1-2 seconds of cranking but feels and sounds like it is running on 3 cylinders. But as soon as I touch the accelerator pedal it revs up to about 1200 rpm then settles into a steady idle. Wierd.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33317-rough-start-up/#findComment-670189
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...