Stock Rb20det Or Modified Rb30et ?

[TRD_4age]

well hello there people. I got a bit a pickle here.

I have got a R31 with a standard RB30E motor in it matched with a auto gear box

I am going to turbo it cause it's gonna be a drifter. I have got a choice between a RB20DET that is stock as a rock, Minus turbo,injectors,exhaust manifold,belts and a wiring harness. I can get the motor for $500 though.

But i can also get a rb30et head,Polished,custom exhaust manifold,Intercooler piping and a BOV all for $350

I know some people will say go the rb20 motor, just because it;s twincam insted of the rb30et gear.

But i only plan to have fun in the car and i don't wish to compete. So it's just a car to go have fun in. it is going to be my first drift car.

So what would be the pro's and cons of these motor's and gear ?

cheers in advance

[R31Nismoid]

Having had a worked RB20DET and RB30ET (both around the 180-200rwkw mark)

Forget the RB20. I preferred the RB30 hands down in a direct "vs".

HOWEVER, as it's going into a drift car, if its going to be nice and light/stripped either motor would go well.

FYI - you should be able to get an entire RB20 complete for $500-$700, not missing half it's shit

[JonnoHR31]

torque makes fun, not rb20s

[TRD_4age]

yeah i thought the rb30 would have more tourque. But i also liked the rb20 because it's newer and twincam and can get more options to maike more power

[bubba]

Build the RB30 into a twincam engine then..

[TRD_4age]

I would do a twincam conversion but it cost alot of money and i don't know how to do it. lol. If it just bolted straight on i would do it.

[bubba]

It's not that expensive, especially if you're not chasing 4gazillion killerwasps.

[Roy]

Its funny, once upon a time everyone use to poke fun at pushrod v8s, even if they got the job done they were tarnished with the knuckle dragger dinosaur tag. These days, people are saying a SOHC, 8 valve cast iron block engine that only revs to 5.5k unless you have a cam, headwork and inlet plenum is the way to go over a smaller 2L twin cam that as a std motor will make more power over a wider rev range.

Not saying that way is clearly any better or worse, but seems the inner more cubes wins over technology rules with Nissan owners, despite out love of hanging sh1t on the pushrod and "low tech" community.

For the record, based on RB30ETs i have been in that have std heads, i would go the RB20DET every time. There was a friends VL turbo that ran a GT35R with a cam but std head and inlet and the thing only made good power for about a 2,500rpm-3,000rpm max powere band. They just fall off power majorly over 5,500rpm when you strap a big turbo to them, unless that head and inlet is really freed up.

Not to mention that your NA RB30 bottom end will not be ideal for running decent amounts of boost unlike the RB20

[Birds]

Most of the time people hanging shit on anything, tend not to know much about it!!!

[MBS206]

Most of the time people hanging shit on anything, tend not to know much about it!!!

Agreed!

Especially those who are claiming a push rod to be outdated technology... It's actually newer then OHC (And DOHC too IIRC)

In regards to them, the RB30DET conversion is not that expensive.

Get a decent RB30E motor, buy an RB25DE or RB25DET head.

Get the water gallery welded as per the manual, and the head shaved, this would cost you around $150 just to weld and shave, or around $500 to weld, shave and service.

Grab the right timing belt for about $100, grab a VRS kit for $330.

Drill and tap two tensioner positions.

Everything bolts together.

Go get it tuned (You will want more then an RB20/25 turbo though!)

[bubba]

Agreed!

Especially those who are claiming a push rod to be outdated technology... It's actually newer then OHC (And DOHC too IIRC)

In regards to them, the RB30DET conversion is not that expensive.

Get a decent RB30E motor, buy an RB25DE or RB25DET head.

Get the water gallery welded as per the manual, and the head shaved, this would cost you around $150 just to weld and shave, or around $500 to weld, shave and service.

Grab the right timing belt for about $100, grab a VRS kit for $330.

Drill and tap two tensioner positions.

Everything bolts together.

Go get it tuned (You will want more then an RB20/25 turbo though!)

+11ty

RB25 turbo is borderline, I ran one for a couple of years on my 30.. spooled from idle and made 12psi by 2200rpm but choked up at 5800rpm.. I reckon an RB20 turbo would make 12psi at idle lol

[zebra]

+11ty

RB25 turbo is borderline, I ran one for a couple of years on my 30.. spooled from idle and made 12psi by 2200rpm but choked up at 5800rpm.. I reckon an RB20 turbo would make 12psi at idle lol

lulz just tell people its "tuned for response"

[bubba]

lulz just tell people its "tuned for response"

You could pretend it's a diesel

[Dobz]

Just leave it stock, put in a manual gearbox and lock the diff. I've seen stock r31's with coilovers get around the track pretty good, suspension setup is a big part of a good drift car and being your first drift car it would do you a lot more good than just looking for easy power.

[JonnoHR31]

Not to mention that your NA RB30 bottom end will not be ideal for running decent amounts of boost unlike the RB20

huh

NA 30 bottom ends are probabaly the strongest of the RB series

+1 for 30det, i bought a complete 31 fairly cheap for the block, sold heaps of other bits off it which have pretty much paid for the basic 30det stuff (vct weld, gasket, belt etc).

download a copy of the rb25 workshop manual and go for it

[Roy]

He is asking about throwing a turbo RB30ET head onto an RB30E bottom end. From what I understand the RB30ET ran a lower compression bottom end. So not sure what the detonation limt is going to be like if he throws a SOHC head onto his NA bottom end?!?!?!?

Of course the RB30DET would be the better option, but he is asking about making an RB30ET out of a completely std RB30E

[JonnoHR31]

with todays fuels the 30e compression is better than 30et compression, even for turbo. plenty of people running over 1 bar with assorted turbos on 30e+t's

[discopotato03]

The other option is to try and find a cheapish R32 GTST that isn't dead and have a play with that .

All I can see is good money being spent on that R31 and in Aussie form they are heavy and lack a decent rear end and brakes . I think an R32 would be lighter more nimble and have a more suitable driveline/suspension/brakes std .

I think the best thing you can do with the R31 is fit a tow bar so you can hire a float and haul the 32 (no need for rego etc) to the events .

A .

[Guilt-Toy]

The other option is to try and find a cheapish R32 GTST that isn't dead and have a play with that .

All I can see is good money being spent on that R31 and in Aussie form they are heavy and lack a decent rear end and brakes . I think an R32 would be lighter more nimble and have a more suitable driveline/suspension/brakes std .

I think the best thing you can do with the R31 is fit a tow bar so you can hire a float and haul the 32 (no need for rego etc) to the events .

A .

^^^^^^^^^^

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A wise man once said....

[TRD_4age]

well i can't find a R32 for $1000 as i have all the S13 parts here to do the conversion on the skyline to convert it to coil overs. I got a set of R33 calipers made to fit the s13 hubs. Got a manual gear box all arriving on the weekend. All i need now is to work the motor. I can leave it NA as the head has had a few $$$ spent on it. But i really want tp turbo it as that seems the most logical thing to do in drifitng a old skool car