R33 parts, stock S11 turbo, dump pipe, front pipe and S1 black spoiler
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Just out of interest, did you check the "ENG CONT" fuses in the engine bay fuse block? I had a very similar issue to this with my Link, and those 2 10a fuses were blown, so ecu was only getting 9~v, whilst having 14v supplied to the rest of the vehicle. Likely not the problem, but just thought id make the suggestion after having a similar problem. -
Am I correct in thinking that even if you flat a rear, you'll have to fit the spare to the front anyway? I'm thinking that the LSD will thank you for not inflicting a massive permanent speed difference on it. -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Time for millspec wiring, MoTec electronics package, Bosch Motorsport ABS, let's goooooooo!!! Maybe as @MBS206 suggested, just swap out those stupid blue relays near the ECU plug. -
My only regret with the NC MX5 was no space for a spare, even a space saver doesn't fit in I do have a couple of those puncture repair spray cans, but if I get a large puncture, or sidewall damage, I'm screwed until a tilt tray turns up I'm thinking I might get one of those 4WD style of puncture repair kits that have that rope stuff and glue, whilst it will kill any hope of saving a tyre, it might help getting me out from some backwoods road far enough to find a actual tyre shop if the first can of tyre fix doesn't work I'm keen to see how your new toy pans out Uncle Duncan, I'll be moving to the Highlands next year, you'll need to shout out if your heading to Wakefield, whilst I've lost my balls for happy laps, I still love watching those that can -
Yeah not sure what the warranty was, but it will be years outside it. I've shot Link a message, will see what happens, I'm told their support is good. It is a plug in, so its a Link board in a factory case, very easy to access both sides of the circuit board by removing the top or bottom cover. To be fair the the Link, although I've checked to the factory connections and wiring specs, as we learned with Neil's car in the early days not all ECUs source power the same way. He'd been running a factory ECU with no trouble for years, but when we plugged a PowerFC in it wouldn't start up, just kept cycling power on and off. We worked out that the car was missing one of the 10a fuses "Electronic Parts", and to Neil's knowledge it had never been there. Turns out the ECU pulled its main power from that source not the same place the factory ECU did. Point being....there are multiple battery and ECCS power sources in the factory ECU, and multiple grounds as well....not telling from the outside exactly what the Link uses (and doesn't use)
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