Jump to content
SAU Community

Bnr32 Track Build


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 467
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Micheal,

Impressed with what your doing,

I would like to speak to you about possibly maybe doing a dry carbon door set with you.

As our company has alot to do with full dry carbon and titanium componets.

As we just finished the R35 Dry carbon doors (4kg) we would like to look at a R32 set in the near future,

Please feel free to get in contact with us.

Regards

Uber Motorsport.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Micheal,

Impressed with what your doing,

I would like to speak to you about possibly maybe doing a dry carbon door set with you.

As our company has alot to do with full dry carbon and titanium componets.

As we just finished the R35 Dry carbon doors (4kg) we would like to look at a R32 set in the near future,

Please feel free to get in contact with us.

Regards

Uber Motorsport.

That would be great :D i had a quick look at your website looks like some impressive gear you guys make! Wonder if you could do an exhaust in titanium for the r32 gtr? Would ideally like to try some titanium intercooler piping aswell

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You all say you need to dry sump a gtr but why doesn't a gtst need dry sumping as a nissan sump is a sump. They all have pickups and no baffles in there, just windage trays.

Can't the gtst's pull the corner g's or accel g's of a gtr?

Just curious?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You all say you need to dry sump a gtr but why doesn't a gtst need dry sumping as a nissan sump is a sump. They all have pickups and no baffles in there, just windage trays.

Can't the gtst's pull the corner g's or accel g's of a gtr?

Just curious?

I had very bad oil issue with my gts-t, love watching my oil pressure gauge on the track looked like my boost gauge the way it yoyo up and down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Buy an evo!

i wish i did. tho my gtr is almost finished... 10 years later!

:D

Evo was an option but i just don't like them, driven two of my mates mild mod evo 7 and damn are they quick! but i just not a big fan of them.

plus group a gtr look so nice!

tasilver5.jpg

anyways back to my build,

Looking at cams HKS step 2 272 10.2 lift, will i need to mod the value train to make them fit?

edit being a brand whore i might spend the extra cash and get the REINIK Group A cams

13020-EAD01  INT,EXH 264°(66°)  9.7 105°車種共用

13020-EAD02 INT,EXH 272°(68°) 10.1 105°車種共用

13020-EAD03 INT,EXH 280°(70°) 10.5 105°車種共用

13020-EAD04 INT,EXH 288°(72°) 10.5 105°車種共用

Might go the 272

Edited by Kaido_RR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:D

Evo was an option but i just don't like them, driven two of my mates mild mod evo 7 and damn are they quick! but i just not a big fan of them.

plus group a gtr look so nice!

tasilver5.jpg

anyways back to my build,

Looking at cams HKS step 2 272 10.2 lift, will i need to mod the value train to make them fit?

edit being a brand whore i might spend the extra cash and get the REINIK Group A cams

13020-EAD01  INT,EXH 264°(66°)  9.7 105°車種共用

13020-EAD02 INT,EXH 272°(68°) 10.1 105°車種共用

13020-EAD03 INT,EXH 280°(70°) 10.5 105°車種共用

13020-EAD04 INT,EXH 288°(72°) 10.5 105°車種共用

Might go the 272

Engine Wise, im looking to keep everything pretty much stock. Just an ecu upgrade and a tune with some more boost (car feels quick enough for the time being)

?????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:D

Evo was an option but i just don't like them, driven two of my mates mild mod evo 7 and damn are they quick! but i just not a big fan of them.

plus group a gtr look so nice!

tasilver5.jpg

anyways back to my build,

Looking at cams HKS step 2 272 10.2 lift, will i need to mod the value train to make them fit?

edit being a brand whore i might spend the extra cash and get the REINIK Group A cams

13020-EAD01  INT,EXH 264°(66°)  9.7 105°車種共用

13020-EAD02 INT,EXH 272°(68°) 10.1 105°車種共用

13020-EAD03 INT,EXH 280°(70°) 10.5 105°車種共用

13020-EAD04 INT,EXH 288°(72°) 10.5 105°車種共用

Might go the 272

Don't go near any of those cams with the turbos you are running. Infact keep the stock cams.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't go near any of those cams with the turbos you are running. Infact keep the stock cams.

after having a talk with my tuner i think i go -5 turbos what cams would suit them? is 280 to big

Edited by Kaido_RR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Big claims here.  Any links up on the website ?   
    • If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box.  If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it.  CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory.    Also the deal above is awesome,, get that  
    • Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
    • Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
    • Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.
×
×
  • Create New...