Bnr32 Track Build

[R31Nismoid]

Im going all the Ikeya gear on my build, already brought it and no it wasnt cheap but its the best.

Best based on what though?

Price tag is the only thing, and that doesnt mean its the best by any means.

Something that does exactly the same job, for 1/4 the price = best. That's because it's got the best of everything including the price

Hell the gear that i got off ole fatz that was custom made here in Aus (front arms) was 1/5th the price of the Jap stuff & far more durable/better quality.

Price tag alone does not dictate the level of performance at all.

I could paint it Ikeya mustard yellow and feel good in the pants too if i wanted

[djr81]

I could paint it Ikeya mustard yellow and feel good in the pants too if i wanted

Nah mate - paint all your home built bits - err, sorry custom fabricated components - Nismo silver. In other words whatever shade the rattle packs from Supercheap Auto come in. That is what I do anyway.

Edited August 27, 2010 by djr81

[R31Nismoid]

lol +1

$3 pressure packs

[Beer Baron]

If you went with whitline sway bars you could save yourself $500 which is 1 tyre

Get Autometer Gauges instead of Defi - another $500 so theres 2 tyres straight up, with no performance disadvantage

there is actually a big advantage to defi gauges.

they have adjustable warning buzzer and lights and the option of massive shift light sized warning light for important warnings (like no oil pressure)

they have a recording function. ever try checking your oil and fuel pressure at 200km/h through turn 1 at eastern creek.... not easy. much easier to do 2 hot laps, head to the pits and replay the gauges to determine if you are suffering oil surge anywhere or fuel pressure drop.

they are very easy to set-up and install and have ALL external sensors so no fluids or gasses plumbed in cabin.

yes they cost more but they are worth more and will last a bloody long time. I've had one set for over 6 years with no failure what so ever and they can be easily moved from car to car.

[Beer Baron]

In my opinion Ikeya Formula stuff isn't worth it unless you are loaded. Get either Cazman's stuff, or SPL gear from the states. The SPL gear especially is super trick.

What's the deal with the rear swaybar on an R32? I know on S chassis a lot of track guys either leave them stock or just remove it.

I think you might be thinking front sway bar? on a lot of cars the factory front swaybar is HUGE and promotes understeer so guys go stiffer in the rear and leave front stock, or even remove the front. I guess people could do it rear too but I wouldn't. the R32 needs more rear bar for sure. stock is puny.

the ikeya stuff is definitely worth the money. hold a set of their front R32 lower control arms next to a set of SPL or cazman etc and you will see some big points of difference. one thing pics don't convey well is the sheer size of the bar and rod ends used in the ikeya gear. also use proper 3 piece rod ends with nice forged eyes instead of the cheap chinese cast ones most brands use.

[Beer Baron]

Im going all the Ikeya gear on my build, already brought it and no it wasnt cheap but its the best. Also went Du-luck sway bars (i'll let you find the price on those) and Nismo 1.5 rear LSD. Next step will most likely be the Ohlins Flag-R coilovers but trying to find out who makes softer springs for them? (beer baron?)

Also dont know what front LSD to go? Nismo or Quaife?

for springs for your flag R ohlins the best choice is Swift. japanese made springs and top quality. also fairly light which is important. if on more of a budget cusco make suitable springs in every size, weight and length you could want. there are also locally available options from eibach etc. but for me the swift are no 1 with cusco the best value. they are no where near as expensive as some might think.

for front LSD go for cusco RS 1way/1.5way (set up as a 1 way, can switch it to 1.5 way later if you desire). best value of the aftermarket front GTR diffs and super strong and reliable.

[Beer Baron]

Everybody pulls themselves over A/M radiators in Vic and then their cars can only do a few laps before cooking. Everytime somebody new rocks up to a track day in a skyline they all say get a bigger radiator though they only do 3 laps at a time?? If my oil cooler was as good as my std radiator I could do 20min sessions without a prob. I'm with you. Standard radiators do a great job.

To save cash don't go cams like all the others have told you. Don't go dumps. All the 350-370rwkw gtr here don't use cams and the ones that did took them out.

One thing you I can't see you mentioned, that is a must on 32's is a master cyl stopper. No point having big brakes when you can almost push the pedal to the firewall anyway.

agree with that. one thing I forgot on my list. cam gears for the stock cams. get them tuned and you can pick up as much as 25kw mid range and maybe 5 or 10kw top end. on a GTR making around 260-280kw. for anything up to 300kw (and many would say up to 350kw) stock cams with adjustable cam gears on both cams is the way to go. it can make a big difference to how the car drives.

agree with brake master stopper. even the mega bling cusco one is less than $200 and works very well.

[Beer Baron]

I know guys think the ikeya arms are just a price tag and a sticker but they are actually a big improvement over other brands. well the R32 front lower control arms are in particular. of course rear traction rods nothing special (very simple arm), rear lower arms are good but nothing out of this world (but very tough), front upper arms are very basic (not adjustable for R32 either), rear upper arms again nothing too fancy. but for those arms the prices are not much more than other brands. that $5K price list for a set of arms is full whack retail I'm sure. I don't think I've ever paid near that for a set even with the SHIT AUD right now.

[djr81]

agree with that. one thing I forgot on my list. cam gears for the stock cams. get them tuned and you can pick up as much as 25kw mid range and maybe 5 or 10kw top end. on a GTR making around 260-280kw. for anything up to 300kw (and many would say up to 350kw) stock cams with adjustable cam gears on both cams is the way to go. it can make a big difference to how the car drives.

agree with brake master stopper. even the mega bling cusco one is less than $200 and works very well.

Actually if you ask nicely you can get a Cusco brake stopper that ties into the strut brace for a good price. Saves buying two different bits of gear.

[Luke_ENR34]

Thanks beer baron. There are a set of flag r on the auctions at the moment which I'll try and pick up. Shame the springs that are in them are 10k front and rear, so will be looking at going 6k and 8k.

[Kaido_RR]

I know guys think the ikeya arms are just a price tag and a sticker but they are actually a big improvement over other brands. well the R32 front lower control arms are in particular. of course rear traction rods nothing special (very simple arm), rear lower arms are good but nothing out of this world (but very tough), front upper arms are very basic (not adjustable for R32 either), rear upper arms again nothing too fancy. but for those arms the prices are not much more than other brands. that $5K price list for a set of arms is full whack retail I'm sure. I don't think I've ever paid near that for a set even with the SHIT AUD right now.

price was just quote of the Ik site, im sure i can get them cheaper

[Beer Baron]

Thanks good to get some info from someone who has racing background with there gtr

Cage was the first thing on my list however, once my dad jump into the car he was like im going to drive this on the street so kind of put a end to the full cage idea. however i might be able to sneak a half cage in there lol.

Also on the lsd side, i see nismo make a new carbon plate lsd, is it worth the money over a normal nismo lsd?

forget a carbon diff. for the kind of power and usage it's not needed. nothing wrong with putting the nismo clutch upgrade kit into your current standard rear 2 way LSD. at ~$330 for the clutch disks and couple hundred to have them installed and set-up it's a great budget mod. it'd been good enough for both mark and russ in the 32 and 34 (34 uses different stuff now though). and also good enough for plenty of other circuit and street GTRs.

definitely go half cage if a full cage is out of the equation. bond make quite affordable half cages, get one welded in. they are not too intrusive and the rear seats in a GTR are useless anyway.

[Beer Baron]

Actually if you ask nicely you can get a Cusco brake stopper that ties into the strut brace for a good price. Saves buying two different bits of gear.

yep, they are good too. just sold one to a bloke with an S15. good piece of gear for reasonable money.

[«Cyph3r»]

forget a carbon diff. for the kind of power and usage it's not needed. nothing wrong with putting the nismo clutch upgrade kit into your current standard rear 2 way LSD. at ~$330 for the clutch disks and couple hundred to have them installed and set-up it's a great budget mod. it'd been good enough for both mark and russ in the 32 and 34 (34 uses different stuff now though). and also good enough for plenty of other circuit and street GTRs.

definitely go half cage if a full cage is out of the equation. bond make quite affordable half cages, get one welded in. they are not too intrusive and the rear seats in a GTR are useless anyway.

As far as I can tell the only major benefit of a carbon diff is the silence & smoothness in daily driving.

There's a day and night difference in NVH between my Kaaz and ATS carbon 1.5 ways.

Not really any performance difference I can tell however except for smoothness of engagement.

Edited August 27, 2010 by «Cyph3r»

[byebye]

one thing I forgot on my list. cam gears for the stock cams. get them tuned and you can pick up as much as 25kw mid range and maybe 5 or 10kw top end. on a GTR making around 260-280kw. for anything up to 300kw (and many would say up to 350kw) stock cams with adjustable cam gears on both cams is the way to go. it can make a big difference to how the car drives.

i'm about to get my gtr tuned with standard turbos, going down the route of getting everything else sorted first, so it would be worth the money to get a set of cam gears before my tune?

[R31Nismoid]

yes.

[byebye]

Thankyou, recommend a brand? dont want crap stuff but obviously the theme of this thread is dont fall into the brand name trap..

[mattah]

I think you might be thinking front sway bar? on a lot of cars the factory front swaybar is HUGE and promotes understeer so guys go stiffer in the rear and leave front stock, or even remove the front. I guess people could do it rear too but I wouldn't. the R32 needs more rear bar for sure. stock is puny.

No it's definitely the rear sway bar, must just be an S chassis thing.

the ikeya stuff is definitely worth the money. hold a set of their front R32 lower control arms next to a set of SPL or cazman etc and you will see some big points of difference. one thing pics don't convey well is the sheer size of the bar and rod ends used in the ikeya gear. also use proper 3 piece rod ends with nice forged eyes instead of the cheap chinese cast ones most brands use.

No offense, but have you ever held a piece of Cazman or SPL gear? Neither make lower control arms (SPL used to stock NAMS (imported from Japan) but they don't any more - at least on their website), but the stuff they do make is exceptional quality, and uses US made motorsport quality bearings that are easily and cheaply serviceable. On top of that, SPL at least is known to be great with support, they offer an upgrade process when they develop new versions of their parts, and are amazing with any warranty issues. With Cazman's stuff developed in Australia I would imagine support would also be great, I know for a fact that he stocks bearing replacements. Don't get me wrong, I think the Ikeya stuff is good, but the price they want for some of their stuff is ridiculous, and the cost to maintain is also high. The PSM (Parts Shop Max) stuff is also good and I believe they use NMB bearings in all their gear. Another alternative, Peak Performance arms are made in the US use Aurora bearings in all their arms. None of this is to be confused with the cheap Chinese stuff.

I'll try and get a shot sometime of my SPL stuff next to the same Ikeya parts, my brother has a few bits of Ikeya on his track car.

There are alternatives out there to Ikeya, many cheaper and just as good if not better.

[Risking]

^^^^ agree.

I give up though, ikea is the best by far there is no other, if you want a quick car you need them.

I'll check the thread in 6 months when people are wondering why their cars are still slow despite spending 6 figures on expensive parts they don't actually need.

I'm the mean time I'll be in my no branded workshop building Cars that actually have good geometry, handle, stop, steer and get used with good results.

[ezy_09s]

^^ for home fabricated stuff..especially high quality stuff as good if not better than some overpriced (insert name) part.

Risking , btw i would like to have your components over most catalog stuff around.