Bnr32 Track Build

[byebye]

yes, definitely get some adjustable cam gears before the tune so they can be adjusted too when it's tuned.

as far as brand. envy imports in sydney make good ones. they use standard gears that they cut the centre out of and fit an adjustable piece. this is good as the outer parts is still factory (steel and strong). some alloy gears suffer from the teeth wearing but these wont. and with 5 fasteners they shouldn't slip either. apart from those I also like the tomei and trust gears. other workshops around also make their own using standard gears like envy does too, as long as they are made properly they are a good option.

Cheers Beer Baron just sent envy an email!

[badhairdave]

Well I managed to pick up some flag-r ohlins last night. Got them for 89500 yen + shipping. Just gotta organize 6k and 8k swift springs for them now. And Barron ur right the springs are cheap, just under 15000 yen a pair

600k coilovers for 89k? Whats wrong with them?

[djr81]

I agree with Marlin above most definitely regarding adjustable bushes.

I would also like to go back to diff centres, particularly if anyone has experience with Torsion diffs in the front like that offered by Quaife instead of a 1.0/1.5 way? Would it be a better option? I am not sure if they are rebuildable like a Nismo 1.0/1.5/2.0 which uses clutch type plates.

The Quaiffe diffs are fundamentally different to the friction plate types from Nismo etc.

They come with a lifetime guarantee.

See here.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials

[djr81]

I'll proudly stand up here and say my car has only Fulcrum eccentric bushes in the front and rear upper arms and castor rods

That's legal for the rallies I do, and cheap! I'm also a tight arse

I'd rather spend the money on fuel and rubber to practice. I figure it's easier to teach me to drive it quicker than spend time and money on arms.

Kaido, my suggestion is do the minimum required to get it track reliable, and feel the car out, making changes only if you think there will be a tangiable improvement. I don't see much point in throwing a catalogue at it and endlessly chasing the right heights and settings.

Advised settings differ from everyone around the country. I've lost track of the PMs I've received asking for my basic settings, only to be told I'm blatantly wrong! Lol

My R 32 R had Whiteline eccentric bushes in it with a slightly lowered front ride height & Cusco castor rods. It destroyed the bushes at Wanneroo iwithin one days running. I would reckon a few other people have had that experience.

At the end of the day you need to address the upper link & mount so that it lasts & so that you get some front end grip.

In the absence of anyone making a decent front upper arm that can use bushes I made my own. Teamed with a Mismo link bracket (which is a stock with with different drill holes) it works fine.

Marlin is 100% right also. I have seen alot of people with flash cars that couldn't drive out of sight on a dark night. For anyone in WA who wants to learn they could do alot worse that the the WASCC Competition Driving school. For $200 bucks it is a good way to spend some money. There is one on the 1st November.

[bigmikespec]

The Quaiffe diffs are fundamentally different to the friction plate types from Nismo etc.

They come with a lifetime guarantee.

See here.

http://www.quaife.co.uk/differentials

Yes I know they are much different. Would love to hear feedback of someone who has used one? Missed that bit about lifetime guarantee that is good to know!

http://www.quaife.co.uk/catalogue/products/qdf3l

P.O.A makes me nervous

[Luke_ENR34]

600k coilovers for 89k? Whats wrong with them?

No idea. Got my mate having a good look over them before they get sent here. Anyone know what those blue circles are?

Im thinking cut helper springs but then again it doesnt make sense to include them in a sale.

[R31Nismoid]

P.O.A makes me nervous

So so true

[djr81]

Yes I know they are much different. Would love to hear feedback of someone who has used one? Missed that bit about lifetime guarantee that is good to know!

http://www.quaife.co.uk/catalogue/products/qdf3l

P.O.A makes me nervous

Well ask & you may be surprised. They are (from memory) more expensive than the Japanese stuff but not massively so. Also it probably depends on the exchange rate a bit too so it would be worth asking the question.

[Beer Baron]

No idea. Got my mate having a good look over them before they get sent here. Anyone know what those blue circles are?

Im thinking cut helper springs but then again it doesnt make sense to include them in a sale.

the two blue little circles by themselves are spring insulators. just pieces of rubber. the blue bits on the shocks between the main springs and the lower spring perch are helper springs. just there to keep the springs captive under droop.

the springs fitted to the shocks are swift. that bronze colour is the swift 'default' spring colour. do you know what rates they are? good score.

[Luke_ENR34]

Cheers mate, spring rates in them now are 10k front and rear, they also come with a pair of those mines springs (pictured) but they are 9k rates. I'm gonna grab a new set of swift 8k fronts and 6k rears for them.

[Kaido_RR]

Just an update return home from my one week holiday to find my nice new arc filters had come also waiting on my hks piping kit, pfc dejtro and hks racing front pipe.

Need to find myself a good ebc dobt really like the bleed value, tossing up between the hks evc or blitz id3. The hks is more pricey but has a boost scarmble on a trigger function.

[Kaido_RR]

Finally got around to working on the gtr today.

Std Gtr brakes off! AP Racing Brakes on!

Now just need to replace the disc and pads on the rear and install the braided brake lines and the brakes are done! Will be using Shell Racing Fluid again

[Kaido_RR]

Ok Just some question regarding the brakes

Should i remove the stone guards? i have already remove a section as it was hitting the dog bone.

Will it help with cooling or is it not worth it?

And does anyone know if rear brake lines are the same for the gtr and the r33 gtst?

[Marlin]

Yes, def take the stone gaurds off.

i have no idea re the brake lines, I steer clear of 33 GTS-t's

[mattah]

Ok Just some question regarding the brakes

Should i remove the stone guards? i have already remove a section as it was hitting the dog bone.

Will it help with cooling or is it not worth it?

And does anyone know if rear brake lines are the same for the gtr and the r33 gtst?

Take the stone guards off, and run ducting from the front of the car to the back of the brakes.

99% certain that the brake lines are the same between R32GTR and R33GTS.

[«Cyph3r»]

Take the stone guards off, and run ducting from the front of the car to the back of the brakes.

99% certain that the brake lines are the same between R32GTR and R33GTS.

Not sure if this is what you meant, but you're best bet is to duct air in behind the rotor hat to the vanes on the centre of the rotor. If you duct straight onto the rotor itself you are asking for warping and cracking.

[djr81]

Not sure if this is what you meant, but you're best bet is to duct air in behind the rotor hat to the vanes on the centre of the rotor. If you duct straight onto the rotor itself you are asking for warping and cracking.

There are a couple things to note:

1. At the rear the bushes for one of the suspension links is awfully close to the rotor. Have a good look and a think about it before you start grinding off stone guards.

2. The inner pads will run hotter than the outer pads - with or without stone guards removed. It is good practice to check to tapered pad wear on the inner pad as it is common even on callipers that have staggered piston sizes.

[Marlin]

Blah, never had an issue in 10+ years of R32 stone gaurd off action

Edited September 10, 2010 by Marlin

[djr81]

Blah, never had an issue in 10+ years of R32 stone gaurd off action

Well, neither have I but I took the precaution of taping up the upright & link with some heat reflective tape to make sure it kept cool. Mabe if the rotten thing weren't so fat we wouldn't have this problem. Ateast the backs don't get anywhere near as hot as the front, but the inside pads wear alot faster than the outers.

[Duncan]

Well, neither have I but I took the precaution of taping up the upright & link with some heat reflective tape to make sure it kept cool. Mabe if the rotten thing weren't so fat we wouldn't have this problem. Ateast the backs don't get anywhere near as hot as the front, but the inside pads wear alot faster than the outers.

same here.....probably 10% faster wear on the inner