Bnr32 Track Build

[R31Nismoid]

GTS-t and GTR are not the same.

You have extra weight, totally different characteristics with regards to over/understeer and so on.

You are basically discounting advice from people who've been doing this stuff for many years... and running some very respectable times.

And no point "trying" different spring rates initially as you'll spend more time learning about the car, how to drive it fast and so on.

I'd only be toying with suspension in detail after at LEAST one full year of track days.

[paulR32gtr]

I would suggest reading this with regard to tuning D-Jetro vs L-Jetro on individual throttle engines

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/ar...e-1-part-2.aspx

This is true... was thinking it would be a killer to setup.

Hotwire AFM's are not a restriction like the crappy old flappy ones used to be, so other than maybe simpler intake packaging I don't see the appeal with going MAP.

AFM's will also respond to flow changes in intake and exhaust - always good to be tuning after any change but in general I think AFM's are a much more flexible solution.

[Kaido_RR]

GTS-t and GTR are not the same.

You have extra weight, totally different characteristics with regards to over/understeer and so on.

You are basically discounting advice from people who've been doing this stuff for many years... and running some very respectable times.

And no point "trying" different spring rates initially as you'll spend more time learning about the car, how to drive it fast and so on.

I'd only be toying with suspension in detail after at LEAST one full year of track days.

im not discounting anyone advice, hence why im starting with 6/8 combo. i personally was just going to go with 10/10 and be happy with that. but after starting this topic and reading people input i through i start lower and see how that goes, i don't plan to change anytime soon but once the car is at the level i want it and i have constant lap times i will see what affect a higher spring rate does to my lap time.

As i have yet to find any information regarding running spring rate A v's spring rate B

[bigmikespec]

As i have yet to find any information regarding running spring rate A v's spring rate B

That is because there is no direct answer for that question... best way to figure it out is listen to experienced people and work out a ball part to start from. Then the development can begin from there.

I would also disregard most things they do in Japan as far as race car suspension is concerned.

[paulR32gtr]

Sorry if you have already covered this - but what sort of tyres are you going to be running?

Full slicks or semi's ?

[Kaido_RR]

Sorry if you have already covered this - but what sort of tyres are you going to be running?

Full slicks or semi's ?

Atm im just running street tyres re001r but have order another set on rims which will run re55s so just semi. I will be starting off in time events so full slick will be out as i wont be able to get enought heat into the tyres

[Kaido_RR]

That is because there is no direct answer for that question... best way to figure it out is listen to experienced people and work out a ball part to start from. Then the development can begin from there.

I would also disregard most things they do in Japan as far as race car suspension is concerned.

Thats the plan, its a shame the owner doesnt know the spring rate of the coilover and being in japan there is no way of me finding out till i get them.

The plan is to go swift 6/8 and then try to work out what is the go with the assist springs on the front, im assuming something small like 2 or 3 would be best suited ???

[Risking]

I am about to modify and fit up a set of sach shocks to my little gtir pulsar which I'm stuffing around with for shits and giggles.

When it's ready to go testing why don't you come out to the circuit with us and get a first hand experiance of what it takes and the methods we use to make a car do what we want it to do. Minus the guess work.

No fancy arms or massive chassis changes just a fairly well thought out chassis with quality parts that I know will deliver the goods. I think you'd be very suprised how easy it is to turn a car all pear shaped with the wrong choice of parts or heading off on an expensive tangent when the solution is very simple.

I can already forsee you forever going around and around in circles chasing fast cars with alot less coin thrown at them because of fundamental mistakes and choices your making now.

I don't know everything and you could prove me wrong, but the offer is there for you to learn a thing or two which others may not already know.

[Kaido_RR]

I am about to modify and fit up a set of sach shocks to my little gtir pulsar which I'm stuffing around with for shits and giggles.

When it's ready to go testing why don't you come out to the circuit with us and get a first hand experiance of what it takes and the methods we use to make a car do what we want it to do. Minus the guess work.

No fancy arms or massive chassis changes just a fairly well thought out chassis with quality parts that I know will deliver the goods. I think you'd be very suprised how easy it is to turn a car all pear shaped with the wrong choice of parts or heading off on an expensive tangent when the solution is very simple.

I can already forsee you forever going around and around in circles chasing fast cars with alot less coin thrown at them because of fundamental mistakes and choices your making now.

I don't know everything and you could prove me wrong, but the offer is there for you to learn a thing or two which others may not already know.

i would take you up in a second, but i have a feeling your not in perth

In your honest opinion were do you think im going wrong? Atm the plan is not to change any suspension arms, just new set of coilovers (as the current spring and shock combo is Shockley hard, front adjustment doesn't work and rather large knocking sounds from the rear struts)

I will be going with Quantum T5-RS coilovers with unknown swift springs plus assist springs on the rear (again unknown rate)

so first think i will do once they arrive is remove the springs and replace them with something i know the values of, i will be using swift springs but as i mention im not 100% sure on the rate i will use was looking at the 6/8 region?

Do gtr required a higher or lower front spring?

What i do later on is up to how well the car goes. i want to run constant before i start changing this that and everything else, as i have no gtr experience, all my driving at the track in the pst 4years was a gts-t which was pretty simple to drive. For sure i want to run I.k gear etc but i have a feeling i will be making things alot harder for myself if i take huge jumps in the beginning.

aiming to have around 350-400hp with the BCNR33 N1 turbos if that matters

edit: i know from page to page things seem to change but at this stage im set on just going with a basic setup and running constant times before i start changing everything

Edited September 15, 2010 by Kaido_RR

[bigmikespec]

Mate if you could go to Sydney and see Risking! I made the trip from Adelaide and it was well worth it... if he will have me I might come and annoy him again

[Luke_ENR34]

Just got my order put in for the Swift springs for the Ohlins. Im using 6/8. There the part numbers if you need them. Price is per Pair to.

Swift Spring Z65-178-080 - 14,460yen.

Swift Spring Z65-254-060 - 15,930yen

[Kaido_RR]

Just got my order put in for the Swift springs for the Ohlins. Im using 6/8. There the part numbers if you need them. Price is per Pair to.

Swift Spring Z65-178-080 - 14,460yen.

Swift Spring Z65-254-060 - 15,930yen

thanks, are you running and helper or assist springs with the Ohlins?

[Luke_ENR34]

Yeah I am all round. Just using the original ohlins ones.

[Kaido_RR]

Yeah I am all round. Just using the original ohlins ones.

any idea what they are rated at?

[Roy]

What do you mean by 6/8? Are you really running softer springs in the front then the rear?

[Nee-san]

What do you mean by 6/8? Are you really running softer springs in the front then the rear?

I'm assuming he means 8F 6R.

[Luke_ENR34]

Oops yeah 8K Front 6K rears

[carcouture]

I through i would start a new topic as i made the jump and bought a gtr

My focus for this build is suspension and aerodynamics and im looking for input from other GTR owners.

Here is what im start with

1990 BNR32 GTR 107,000km

Engine Swap which has done 50,000km (believe it is a r33 gtr engine)

R33 N1 Turbos

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump

ARC Airbox

HKS Hipower Cat-back exhaust + decat pipe

bleed value

No aircon

Hicas has been remove

Advan 17x9.5 +19 with 235/45/17 RE001 rubber

Bee-r suspension (looks to be just bee-r shocks with std spring however the car is pretty stiff but ride high looks std)

Parts which i will be using from my previous track car

AP Racing CP5500 Front Calipers (4pot)

Endless slotted 323 disc (32mm thick)

Endless cc-rg pads (front and rear)

APP Braided brake lines

Bride Zeta 3 seat

Nismo Steering Wheel

Nismo 4point harness

Now i have a HKS Oil coller (Type R remount oil mount + built in thermostate) the kit is for an R33 and the lines were just long enough for me to mount it on my driver side vent on the r33 and i think this MAY be an issue if i use it on the r32 as the bov are there, Should i just sell the kit and buy something made for the gtr or try and get it to fit?

Now the plan was to completely strip the interior and put a cage etc however my dad has decided he likes it so he wants to drive it on the street so that plan has gone out the window until i can convince him to buy a R34 gtr or R35 ahaha.

Please note i am a brand whore ahaha!

Now Suspension Setup Time.

After doing alot of reaching and research i have come to two choice regarding suspension arms setup

1.Ikea formula

2.Nismo

Now i would prefer to go the Ikea formula as i ran some of there gear in my r33 and just look the quality of the parts and the adjustment levels. However after reading "Merli's R32 Track Bitch" topic looks like he had issue with the Front LCA and full lock due to them not having any bump stoppers. Do you think this is enough of an issue to warrant me using nismo items (note the car will be street driven by my dad )

For swaybar it seems that everyone loves the cusco gear, so i will go with them if i can't get any ARC ones are a reasonable price.

LSD i will be looking a NISMO gear; 1.5way rear and 1way, nismo have a new lsd out which uses carbon plates which i will look into and see if it is worth the extra cash.

Now coilovers is were things get interesting. i ran Tein RA in my r33 and love them i would love to find some for my r32 but so far no luck. So the other opinions i have are ohlins, Kw (heard good things about them), possible HKS to start off with (something like Hypermax 3 sport however i know they are more an entry level street/track setup then a full hardcore race setup) or maybe nismo.

I have found some nismo s-tune suspension however i am not too sure if they will be too soft and i don't think nismo made there hardcore suspension for the r32.

Spring rate i am set on starting off with something around the 8/10 or 10/10 mark, alot of people will say thats too hard/stiff but i ran 10/10 in my gts-t and it was perfect and from what i have look at that the jap run it seems to be the normal.

Have a miss anything regarding suspension that i should look into?

Now onto Aero bits, to start off with i think i will just go with a front diffuser/undertray and rear diffuser.

rear diffuser i may use the one i bought for my r33 but never fitted

Front i am looking at getting this one

Im not sure if its aero properties are that great but its a starting point.

Front bumper im looking to replace with a n1 item so i can have the vents and just run the std lip.

Engine Wise, im looking to keep everything pretty much stock. Just an ecu upgrade and a tune with some more boost (car feels quick enough for the time being)

Thats about it for now, if i think of anything else i add it later

If anyone has any input please feel free to add, i have zero gtr experience and i have learn with my gts-t that it is better to do things right the first time.

Cheers Michael

Hi,

probably no news but aero tweeks are useless. The GTR would need a whole new nose-section to lower cf value. I found front bumper canards very useful - I made some for a TT R DTM here in Germany - look much more agressive than the good old canards for GTR's and work great.

One useful idea is redirecting the air through the IC opening back out through the hood. Gives downforce and great handling on corners. Little space though and more for cars with relocated radiators to the trunk. Will have a look for pictures and upload something.

TAke care

[NickR33]

What do you mean by 6/8? Are you really running softer springs in the front then the rear?

some numbnuts did this to my car... Chris just pulled the Teins out to get rebuilt and the springs were 10F 11R... no wonder the rear just wouldn't settle over rough surfaces... going with a softer rate front and rear now so should put the power down better... must have been a mistake when the original owner ordered them, can't see anyone in their right mind doing that on purpose!

[phunky_monkey]

Just got my order put in for the Swift springs for the Ohlins. Im using 6/8. There the part numbers if you need them. Price is per Pair to.

Swift Spring Z65-178-080 - 14,460yen.

Swift Spring Z65-254-060 - 15,930yen

Can I ask who you ordered through Luke?