Bnr32 Track Build

[Kaido_RR]

Kaido,

your getting sound advise from these guys!

I have some knowledge about this as well as i did build mine to race against some serious factory race cars. And to be perfectly honest we built a great engine with lots of power, and that was my first mistake.

From the day we removed the stock engine was the day we started to have issues. Not once did the old stock engine give any problems. Instead of spending 10k+ on that i would have, should have put that into the handling development of the old girl. It was only after i did start to get that part of the package right did the lap time really improve and that was after i had a 430AWHP engine sitting in it.

Your order of merrit should be something like this.

Weld in cage

Weight reduction program (best HP ever)

Better brake package

Better suspension coil overs, bushes, swaybars and control arms etc

Ensure 4wd system and diffs are 100%

Oil cooler / radiator ( well i had to at least )

That will give you a good platform to start with, and wont cost you a down payment of a house! I like to look at it this way HP will make you a bit faster, as it will cover any mistakes you make or the lack of handling from your car. Penny dropped for me one day following a clio cup car while running another new engine in. Was only allowed to pull 4000 RPM which put me about the same top speed as the clio. Unlike race days where i would hose them down any straight if i needed too. But following this guy for 20 minutes firmly told me my car was not all it should of been as he handed my arse back to me in the twisty sections. But some investment in good coilovers etc and a alinement spec supplied by Giant made far more improvement in laptimes then when i dropped the 10k engine in.

Thanks good to get some info from someone who has racing background with there gtr

Cage was the first thing on my list however, once my dad jump into the car he was like im going to drive this on the street so kind of put a end to the full cage idea. however i might be able to sneak a half cage in there lol.

Also on the lsd side, i see nismo make a new carbon plate lsd, is it worth the money over a normal nismo lsd?

[Kaido_RR]

In my opinion Ikeya Formula stuff isn't worth it unless you are loaded. Get either Cazman's stuff, or SPL gear from the states. The SPL gear especially is super trick.

What's the deal with the rear swaybar on an R32? I know on S chassis a lot of track guys either leave them stock or just remove it.

agree the stuff isn't cheap

FRONT UPPER LINK (RIGID)

Price 35,000 Yen

ROLL CENTER ADJUSTER PILLOW LOWER ARM (KIT) PAT.

Price 85,000 Yen

TIEROD END PAT.

Price 35,000 Yen

TENSION ROD (PILLOW)

Price 33,000 Yen

ADJUSTER REAR LOWER ARM PAT.

Price 79,000 Yen

TRACTION ADJUSTER ROD

Price 20,000 Yen

REAR KNUCLE PILLOW BUSH(HI-CAS NOT AVAILABLE)

Price 43,000 Yen

REAR CAMBER ADJUSTER UPPER ARM

Price 31,000 Yen

Total: 361000yen aka $5000

[R31Nismoid]

5k just for all that?

You are a mad man...

[Risking]

5k for replacement arms that do stuff all different to the factory shit other than a few average rose joints and some left and right hand thread for basic adjustment.

Oh and a crappy roll center "correction" for the lower arm.

5k can get you a complete set of custom 4130 molly arms with top shelf joints, new rear uprights, modded front uprights and superior geometry to boot.

[zebra]

5k just for all that?

You are a mad man...

Then add $2k to get it all aligned properly

[Marlin]

Fkn brand names again.

Listen to risking, 5k will get you a shitload of custom stuff made here. Aussies have the tech and know how, and can do much better for that money.

[Roy]

...BUT, there is nothing wrong with wanting to go the name brand route. I think to throw all the money and parts at the car is no sin...provided it means you are not parking the car every weekend because you just got another 4k mechanics bill and you cant afford to fuel it up, throw tyres on it and cover entry.

I fully understand wanting a car with quality bits on it .... and you are in two minds of who to trust to go and get custome, bespoked components made by

[Marlin]

Understood and agree, if you wanna spend the money and enjoy owning fancy bits, that's fine and dandy

But, we're talking about going fast for buck here aren't we?

[Luke_ENR34]

Im going all the Ikeya gear on my build, already brought it and no it wasnt cheap but its the best. Also went Du-luck sway bars (i'll let you find the price on those) and Nismo 1.5 rear LSD. Next step will most likely be the Ohlins Flag-R coilovers but trying to find out who makes softer springs for them? (beer baron?)

Also dont know what front LSD to go? Nismo or Quaife?

[Marlin]

It's the best, if you're looking for a bolt on solution.

However, I maintain that you could obtain a better result by utilizing some home grown talent, such as Dave across the road from me, who hand engineered Berry's stuff, and is currently doing another well known time attack car, most recent item being a complete chrome molly rear subframe etc, altering and improving everything, a work of art. Price? Under 2k.

[fatz]

my houso gtr is around the 15k mark

only thing it requires is me to pull my finger out and get the wiring back in

5k on arms... f**k me!

i love this thread

i was stressing over spending 200 on some seat rails!

[Luke_ENR34]

It's a shame there's not many people in Adelaide to talk about custom making items

Chromoly subframe sounds very interesting.

[Roy]

Doesnt that suck! When i grabbed a house and had a garage, I always planned on jigging up a rear end out of chrome moly with some of the base alignment of later model Skylines and lower ride height! Oh well....its been done now

[Rowdyr32]

But some investment in good coilovers etc and a alinement spec supplied by Giant made far more improvement in laptimes then when i dropped the 10k engine in.

He was good enough to give it to me to. Haven't tried it yet but it was pretty close to what I had.

buy a radiator header tank system. about $400 for the ARC one which is good and in my eyes I would do that BEFORE a radiator. don't buy a shiny china radiator. have a look how many people fitted one only to realise they performed worse than the stock 20mm core...

Everybody pulls themselves over A/M radiators in Vic and then their cars can only do a few laps before cooking. Everytime somebody new rocks up to a track day in a skyline they all say get a bigger radiator though they only do 3 laps at a time?? If my oil cooler was as good as my std radiator I could do 20min sessions without a prob. I'm with you. Standard radiators do a great job.

EPIC PAGE! Thanks everyone!

RA are my top coilovers because i have run them in my gts-t and LOVE them, just adjusting the damper and rebound on the track made huge difference to my lap time and how stable the car was.

All Arms will be replace my I.K gear, Swaybars its between the cusco and ARC, i think ARC are about $250-$300 more but i might just bite the bullet and get them.

Clutch will be nismo twin plate, again ran that in my r33 and was more than happy with how it looked after i took it out (3years of abuse and looked brand new)

already got the rims (17x9.5 +19) just need some RE55 for them now.

Brakes will be replaced with my AP gear for the front.

The power mods will come at the end of the year were i will take the engine out, do the sump, oil pump, water pump, timing belt etc at that time i plan to smash in some cams and cam gears and new turbos HKS GT-SS.

exciting months ahead finger cross i can get my AP brakes on soon, so i can hit the track next month just to get a feel for the car and see how far off it is to my gts-t time wise.

AGAIN THANKYOU EVERYONE your help has been awesome save me doing things backwards and wasting time and money

To save cash don't go cams like all the others have told you. Don't go dumps. All the 350-370rwkw gtr here don't use cams and the ones that did took them out.

Buy a R33 gtr bellhousing or get one off a busted box and possibly take your R33 gtst clutch slave and use the old Nismo twin plate R33 clutch. Saves buying one.

You should be able to put the old r33 RA's in the front as its just a straight swap but you will need to buy new springs? 10kg is way to stiff. I know r33 gtr rear don't fit in r32. Their to long. 95% sure the fronts will swap over.

One thing you I can't see you mentioned, that is a must on 32's is a master cyl stopper. No point having big brakes when you can almost push the pedal to the firewall anyway.

my houso gtr is around the 15k mark

5k on arms... f**k me!

i love this thread

i was stressing over spending 200 on some seat rails!

I steal toilet paper and eat rice...........

and

You questioned spending $200 on seat rails?

Why...

$200 on Ikeya, ARC, Cusco and Mines sticker would would make your car 15% tougher! I've been told if placed in the right position the vinyl creates vortex's that improve aero but reducing drag and increase downforce due to the interupted laminar flow.

[Nee-san]

for sure. my old track GTR with 270rwkw was about the same lap time wise at eastern creek as my other grey R32 with 330awkw. the first car had full cage, well set-up ohlins (the same ones I lent giant), lots of time spent on alignment, adustable arms, swaybars etc. it has a fairly stock motor pushing out a super reliable 276kw atw, very easy to drive without massive power on oversteer, good LSD, AWD sorted etc. the other car had much less suspension development and much more power but was not faster and used it's brakes pretty hard.

there is a sweet spot with GTRs that you get to and the smart men leave it at that. the rest of us keep pushing for more (me included).

I reckon for circuit fun in an R32:

upgrade fuel pump (nismo drop in - worth spending on this as it's literally the heart of the car pumping the blood around)

power FC (used, $800)

plenty of time spent tuning (both dyno and road if possible)

either standard turbos at 1bar, or GTSS/garret equivalents run up to 16psi

Big oil cooler (the jap ones are excellent but a bit pricey, the chinese ones are shit, for a mid budget option go with mocal or earls and piece together your own kit)

leave stock intercooler and radiator (changing the intercooler robs the rad of air and means you end up with water temp problems. the stock intercooler is fine for 300kw)

do a hard pipe kit (doesn't have to be the full suction kit, just the one that replaces the main rubber cooler hoses, about $400 second hand for a trust kit)

leave stock BOVs

get a good EBC, trust profec B II will be fine for a car of this level and cheap.

get your injectors cleaned and flowed (as long as they are in good shape their 440cc/min is enough for what you are after)

keep the stock AFMs (like the injectors they'll be maxed but that's fine at this level of power)

get a good exhaust. doesn't have to be titanium. I've had stainless, titanium, and mild and actually my favourite of the lot was a V-band mild steel system, for track use ditch the cat

set of 17X9 +20 wheels and some 235-255 semi slicks or slicks, or 18s if you really want but 32s work well on 17s (the downside is they restrict brake options and tyre choices)

for brakes rebuild your stock calipers, get some brackets made so you can fit some 340mm rotors on the front or even stick with stock 296mm but get new ones and good pads suited to the use of the car

ditch all the interior bar the drivers seat

I believe in spending money on a good seat and a good harness (it's your safety)

mount battery on passenger side floor just in front of where the rear seat used to be

now the expensive stuff.

some good shocks and springs. custom bilstein set-up, Tein RA or RS, nismo R-tune or Ohlins Flag R are about the best gear under $8K (and some are well under). or look at some MCA/proflex

get the arms you need. spend up and do them right first time. Ikeya Formula for all the ones they make, and UAS or noltec for front upper control arms (or even better cut and shut stock arms once you know your length).

swaybars. whiteline bars are ok on a budget (and cheap second hand, it's not like they wear out...) but the ARC bars are best. in between are cusco which are not bad but non adjustable but well priced

you'll also need a good clutch. OS Giken twin plates are cheap to buy and rebuild and reliable.

if you want to spend some money on a sump extension but you should be ok without it at this power level. instead get some good guages preferably with warning buzzers/lights and record function so you can monitor oil surge.

Spend some time learning about suspension alignment and set-up. it's important.

buy a radiator header tank system. about $400 for the ARC one which is good and in my eyes I would do that BEFORE a radiator. don't buy a shiny china radiator. have a look how many people fitted one only to realise they performed worse than the stock 20mm core...

that's about it off the top of my head. everything power wise will be maxed and it's a good balance for the handling/braking/power of the car. it will be reliable and fun and as your driving improves so will your set-up skills and your lap times. nothing on the list is super expensive and the good thing is it can all be done piece by piece.

very solid no nonsense build list, but will it hit his target of around 55 seconds ?

55 seconds is f**king moving.

after i realised my own retardation, I've found that the OP is from WA, for some reason I thought we were talking QR sprint circuit LOL.

Edited August 26, 2010 by Nee-san

[mattah]

Doesnt that suck! When i grabbed a house and had a garage, I always planned on jigging up a rear end out of chrome moly with some of the base alignment of later model Skylines and lower ride height! Oh well....its been done now

You should be able to put R33/34 rear subframes into R32s. You just need offset subframe bushes. You can get them from SPL, or make your own. The subframes are the same between S chassis and Skylines in this case. This gives you less anti squat.

That and Driftworks (SPTEC copy) rear uprights and you have roll centre and geometry markedly improved. Not sure what options are available for the front though.

[fatz]

yup after buying 4 $200 seat rails and eveyone haveing diffrent bolt hole

it shits me... i have a nice collection though

make your own is my point

and i second the stock radiator core

tryed 3 and it works the best

[Risking]

I've been doing Molly craddles for gtr's for years. Front and rear with full wishbone control arm suspension. Modified front uprights and tube Molly rear uprights ( billet is heavy)

Next few weeks I'll be starting another one for one of my old GTR's.

[J - Rad]

Reason i pick defi, is i want the defi 3 din (water, oil temp and oil pressure) and just a defi racer boost gauge, which should be around $600-$800 depends if i buy brand new or not so not bad price really.

Good point, forgot to ask that myself as i was also thinking about running the mines baffles in the head until i can get the sump off and put the tomei baffle in there.

Keep us update on your car, interested to see another similar gtr and how it goes Oh and i see your a perth boy too might see you at the track

Saved you a few hundred dollars right there. Buy the CRD ones instead. Literally the exact same product just the CRD one doesn't have the Mines price tag.

[djr81]

In my opinion Ikeya Formula stuff isn't worth it unless you are loaded. Get either Cazman's stuff, or SPL gear from the states. The SPL gear especially is super trick.

What's the deal with the rear swaybar on an R32? I know on S chassis a lot of track guys either leave them stock or just remove it.

It is worth replacing both front arms & castor rods with A/M gear. But the rears, on a road car? Waste of money.

On an R32 GTR you need a rear bar abour the same size as a scaffold tube.

Edited August 27, 2010 by djr81