Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help Re: Fitting Certain Rims

R-SPEC
 Share

Recommended Posts

R-SPEC Grand Master

R-SPEC

Posted
Posted

evening,

i've bought some 2nd hand rims mainly coz they were dirt cheap and are jap

i havent tried on the rears but i've tried the fronts and they do not clear the calipers :P

just wondering (btw this is for the r34 gt-t experts) what size spacers would i need to use?

rim size on the fronts is 18x8 +42

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333429-need-help-re-fitting-certain-rims/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Transpass Rookie

Transpass

Posted
Posted

you can check the clearance yourself - measure the distance between the brake disc flange and the caliper horizontally and do the same at your wheel/rim.

How to do:

...with a right angled square.

-> e.g. http://www.akcol.com/modules.php?name=Inde...newlang=english

Transpass Rookie

Transpass

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can't say "this wheel dimension/offset will fit with a xx mm spacer" - has a lot to do with wheel design. Offset is measured at the wheel center line (distance between this line and the flange). E.g. a deep dish wheel (racing type) comes with an offset of +5 measured at the wheel center line (WCL), means there's only 5mm between the brake disc/wheel flange and WCL. Now, if the wheel has a flat shape, it should be impossible to fit a big caliper, if it has a round shape or bulge, then there's (often) enough room.

Too much spacer isn't any good for the bearings or braking capability.

Edit: 10mm spacers should be ok :D just wanted to explain for people reading this thread!

Edited by Transpass

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RA708
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By RA708 · Posted

      Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • MBS206
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • GTSBoy
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Duncan
      R33 general questions

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...