Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

back lash is how the teeth on the crown wheel and pinion come into mesh. Ummm sorry I'm having a mental blank but im pretty sure to adjust your backlash you move the crown wheel assembly in or out of mesh with the pinion

Not sure how its done on skyline diffs but

an oil change will do nothing if this is the problem

ok the back lash thing, sounds like it could be it, the front diff is a 2-way os-giken lsd so if it is backlash ( crown and pinion not meshing correctly ) does anyone know a fix for this.....

ps.. its not the normal 2-way lsd noise, I know what that is...

cheers

Ah crap i didnt know we were talking 4WD lol. But yeah it could be the way the diff was installed, maybe incorrect backlash. probably the easiest way to see is to park the car (On a hoist or pit if possible), get under it with the brakes on and try to turn the drive shafts, Then lift the front two wheels up and with the car in gear try and turn either wheel and see if there is movement in the diff yoke (or however the transfer box is connected to the front diff) and do the same with the back wheels

That might give you some clues as to where the problem is. If its your front diff backlash then with your front wheels off the ground and the car in gear you should hear/see/feel any play in the system

Ah crap i didnt know we were talking 4WD lol. But yeah it could be the way the diff was installed, maybe incorrect backlash. probably the easiest way to see is to park the car (On a hoist or pit if possible), get under it with the brakes on and try to turn the drive shafts, Then lift the front two wheels up and with the car in gear try and turn either wheel and see if there is movement in the diff yoke (or however the transfer box is connected to the front diff) and do the same with the back wheels

That might give you some clues as to where the problem is. If its your front diff backlash then with your front wheels off the ground and the car in gear you should hear/see/feel any play in the system

...

with the front wheels off the ground, you can only turn them about 50mm or so either way, so just the slack in the diffs and cv's etc I assume... does that sound normal.. maybe I should compare that with the back ??

yeah i guess hey? Can you take it to a diff/drivetrain specialist. They might be able to do a good test of everything for 20 buks or something ;)

funny I rung 4 diff workshops here in perth and not one of them has ever seen of heard of an OS-Giken front 2-way LSD, but yeah might get one of them to look at it anyway

cheers

What do you mean by 50mm?

Rotate the front tailshaft (not driveshaft) back and forth and see how much play it has. It is directly connected to the pinion so you will know if there is a backlash issue there.

Then turn the wheels back and forth to check how much play is in your spider/axle gears, as this can cause clunking too.

yeah meant with front off the ground the front wheels only turn bout 50mm back and forth, so i assume thats play in the "spider/axle gears"

I haven't tried the front tail shaft for play, but when i put gaerbox back in recently i didn't notice much play in that...

think i'll just have to take it in somewhere and get it looked at

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
×
×
  • Create New...