Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, sorry for the lack of updates, but work got in the way for the past few months, and seeing as it finances the project, I couldn't really say no.

BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY

Having seen a fair number of incidents at the track, and also being a requirement for the race category I plan to enter, I finally bit the bullet and went the full cage. Asking around the racers in WA, one name kept popping up for who does the best rollcages. Brad Stacy. Working for one of the top Race Workshops in WA, and also working from home, I got in touch with Brad, and explained my requirements. Brad was awesome to deal with, and having done dozens of cages before I felt confident leaving my car with him.

The cage took about 2weeks, which wasn't bad considering he was doing it in his spare time. I'm really happy with the end result, and would recommend Brad to anyone thinking of getting a cage done in WA :thumbsup:

http://www.bradstacyfabrication.com.au/

Enjoy the pics

PICTURES

X side bar

post-1397-0-15130700-1308619475_thumb.jpg

Roof X bars

post-1397-0-44112300-1308619493_thumb.jpg

Front view

post-1397-0-06255800-1308619509_thumb.jpg

Rear Cage

post-1397-0-85792900-1308619525_thumb.jpg

Cage Rear Strut

post-1397-0-74825100-1308619543_thumb.jpg

Cage Hoop Top

post-1397-0-53953700-1308619565_thumb.jpg

Cage Hoop Bottom

post-1397-0-78097900-1308619580_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great work Paul,

Good to see Brad sorted Cage out :thumbsup: .

Whats next dude,

new RB30 :rolleyes:

I'm leaving the engine as is for the time being, makes plenty of power. Likely conversion to E85 fuel though, which should improve response and up the power a bit.

was just wondering about this car just yesturday, how long until it gets back on the track???

Potentially it could go back to the track within about 2weeks, but in order to get everything ready to pass scrutineering it will take alot longer. At least I'm back working on the car again, so progress will be made :thumbsup:

  • 4 weeks later...

just getting my battery nerd on, what are you thinking of using?

you can get pretty powerful motorbike batteries, they already use them in race/drift applications anyway

I'm getting a Braille Battery, only weights 3kg :D

http://www.autocraft.au.com/braille/index.html

bit expensive, but that is pretty light, what one were you looking at? how many cca?

are you looking at the lithium ion technology?

depending on the cca you require i'd say a Deka Powersports ETX18L or ETX30L,

they are a AGM technolgy and should have plenty of power and they could even sit around for 6 months and still start the car.

Give Goodchild Enterprises a call and they should be able to give you a good price on one, even tell them Erik from Bitz sent you

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

stock cams will do 450rwhp wouldnt ever use that much grunt really in a track car, plus you would try to retain vct at any cost possible as it is a very good thing to have while tuning.

very clean car mate did you have a dyno sheet from the engine set up on page 1?

i was also supprised at the weight of the doors as well i have mine off at the moments and there feels like enough metal to make a charade out of them.

how much weight do you think you saved by stripping the wiring harnes out of curiosity?

Edited by kungpow

paul have you disabled the VCT to run the big cams?

looking to do this to mine but cant find out much about it.

Hi Tristan, I've got the biggest VCT cams I could find, Apexi 270degs. I think the VCT is one of the best parts of the RB25s. To be honest you'll struggle to find big VCT cams, so you may be stuck with disabling it.

very clean car mate did you have a dyno sheet from the engine set up on page 1?

I do somewhere, I will try and get a copy posted up.

how much weight do you think you saved by stripping the wiring harnes out of curiosity?

At least 10kgs, I have shopping bags full of it.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...