Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was just wondering how many of you have thrown a front mount on there r33 but still using the series 1 front bar.

not series 1.5 im looking for s1.

id love to see some pictures and details on how difficult it was with the stock bar.

thanks!

reference is my car,,, ugly s1 bumper :)

post-61916-1282210501_thumb.jpg

I like s1 bumper, its so..............plain....

Not too difficult,you will have to trim some of the bar, the side scoops mostly to clear pipes and a little out of the middle but not much..biggest problem i reckon is the aircon fan gets in the way so you need to cut the reobar...maybe a smaller fan or something could solve this, i just disposed of the aircon instead... :)

But yeah if you can be rid of that fan somehow its an easy fit...

But if your careful you can squeeze it in so neatly you can hardly notice it

if you want it noticed however,best to get another bar...

you might have to angle the intercooler a bit to miss some stuff

Mine had to be angled a bit to clear the driving light/indicator assembly and the A/C fan.

best thing to do is just to take the front bar off, mount the intercooler then trial fit the front bar till you get the intercooler at the right angle and trim the front bar enough for everything to fit nice

basically trial and error, best way

Mines one of the big fmic's and quite thick.

I didnt do it, a workshop that does not exist anymore did, but they barely shaved anything off it. didnt look so hard to do, mind you I didnt know much about my car at that stage.

you can barely notice it, cops have to stick their heads under the license plate to see it. I rekon it looks good. :)

I think yours is the factory front bar and mine is the factory body kit? not 100% sure...

SL370681smaller.jpg

3321765505_503c3783fd_o-1.jpg

SL370746smaller.jpg

You have M-Spec and the OP just has the normal front bar :)

My S1 Front bar had working driving lights (which from what I've heard is pretty rare) so they were in the way thats why my cooler was angled lol but anyway

Series 2 front bar is much nicer to put a FMIC behind, Requires a fair bit of trimming but only of parts that you cant see

there are also plenty of return flow front mount intercooler kits that you can use which sit very well as they use the stock intercooler pipes in the engine bay.

I have a BLITZ LM Return flow one, but i have a series 2 front bar, sits perfectly flush and its black too so does not grab any un-necessary attention.....

Just a thought. Oh yeah and you dont need to cutt any holes in the engine bay, just a slight few cms off the back of my front plastic bar and thats it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
×
×
  • Create New...