Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I'm looking at purchasing a stagea over the next few months, but as this is my first foray into imported cars, just wondering if anyone can answer some questions for me.

1) How reliable are the km readings on the cars? I've seen a few cars listed online at dealers with 40,000 or 60,000ks on the clock for 98 or 2000 model cars. Is this realistic?

2) Are there any major issues with the stageas that I need to be aware of or things to look out for?

3) Are there any dealers (particularly in Melbourne or Sydney) who are really good or who should be avoided? I've seen Nagoya Motors have quite a few stageas listed, are they any good?

4) Are there any dramas getting them registered in Aus, particularly Tassie?

Thanks heaps for your help!

Tim

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333684-newb-questions/
Share on other sites

1) Not very. Ask the seller for the original auction sheet, that usally makes them squirm if it's a wind back.

2) Nothing major

3) Plenty of discussions on this forum if you use the search function.

4) Nope

No Problemo!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333684-newb-questions/#findComment-5409229
Share on other sites

yep (1) ask for export paper or auction sheet "ステージア" is exactly right - if they dont want to give it to you its been tampered with; also unlike Aus Japan requires KM's to be noted at re-registration intervals

(2) not that im aware especially with the C34's - heaps of spare parts (Same engine as R34 skyline..)

(4) unless you by rego'd & on road you'll need a) compliance & plate b) RWC c) Vicroads inspection

Edited by WTBN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333684-newb-questions/#findComment-5409419
Share on other sites

(3) I bought my NM35 from Nagoya Motors, they were fine, but Northshore Prestige seem to be head and shoulders above everyone regarding quality and knowledge. Time again, I would've paid a little extra & bought through them.

Cheers, Dale.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333684-newb-questions/#findComment-5409475
Share on other sites

O yeah. Northshore pretige are awsome. They got plenty m35's and very helpful. My afm died so I went back to them to see if they could confirm it. They replaced it and then answered my 1000 questions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333684-newb-questions/#findComment-5409568
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...